CFCL's SS25 runway redefines knitwear with a stunning blend of tradition and innovation. Experience vibrant colors, intricate textures, and sustainable design as the brand showcases its commitment to a responsible and stylish future. #ParisFashionWeek
A Journey Through Paris Fashion Week: The Origins and Evolution
Paris Fashion Week, established in 1973 by the French Fashion Federation, has long been a cornerstone in the global fashion calendar. Initially launched to showcase French designers and promote Paris as the fashion capital of the world, it has since evolved into a premier event that attracts top designers, celebrities, editors, and influencers from around the globe. The roots of the event date back even further to 1945 when the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne began organizing fashion shows to reinstate Paris’ status after World War II. Today, Paris Fashion Week is overseen by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM), which curates the official calendar, managing over 100 shows and presentations each season.
Throughout the years, the event has adapted to new challenges while maintaining its status as the most prestigious platform for both emerging and established brands. Paris Fashion Week is no longer just about runway shows; it includes a wide array of fashion-forward events, from exclusive designer presentations to cutting-edge fashion tech showcases. It’s where the industry’s top editors like Anna Wintour and Edward Enninful rub shoulders with global celebrities, influencers, and buyers. In recent years, the fashion week has expanded its reach beyond the catwalk to include digital activations, live-streamed shows, and broader public engagement.
The Economic Impact and Cultural Importance of Paris Fashion Week
Paris Fashion Week is more than just a celebration of fashion—it’s a significant contributor to the French economy. Each season, the event generates hundreds of millions of euros in revenue for the city, thanks to the influx of international visitors, luxury spending, and global media coverage. According to reports, the 2022 fashion weeks brought in an estimated €1.2 billion to the local economy, boosting hospitality, retail, and tourism sectors alike. Attendees range from industry insiders, fashion bloggers, and influencers to celebrities like Rihanna, Zendaya, and Timothée Chalamet, making it a media frenzy of global proportions.
The event highlights Paris as an enduring epicenter of creativity and culture. Known for its artistic legacy, the city offers a unique backdrop that merges historic architecture with modern design, making it an unparalleled stage for the world’s top designers. From the streets of Le Marais to the Grand Palais, Paris serves as a muse, inspiring creativity and innovation season after season.
Paris Fashion Week SS25: Key Highlights and Trends
The Spring/Summer 2025 collections brought a vibrant mix of color trends and innovative design to the forefront. Bright hues such as vivid oranges, electric blues, and bold greens were omnipresent, signaling a resurgence of optimism. Designers leaned into fluidity with silhouettes that embraced freedom of movement, reflective of the increasing shift toward more versatile, multi-use fashion pieces. Brands like Balmain and Saint Laurent experimented with these shapes, while the return of bold accessories—think oversized sunglasses and statement shoes—added a touch of drama to the runways.
The sustainability movement continued its rise, with designers incorporating eco-friendly materials and practices into their collections. Stella McCartney led the charge with her commitment to vegan and recycled materials, while newer brands like CFCL showcased the potential of 3D-knitted, zero-waste garments. The integration of technology was also a major theme, with digital prints, AI-inspired designs, and tech-driven fashion making their mark on the runway.
Challenges Facing the Luxury Fashion Industry
While the excitement of Paris Fashion Week remains as palpable as ever, luxury fashion houses face significant challenges. Here are three pressing issues:
- Sustainability Pressures: With increasing consumer awareness about environmental impacts, luxury brands must adapt to more sustainable production practices. This shift requires significant investment in new materials and processes.
- Technological Disruption: The rise of AI in design and marketing is transforming how fashion is produced and consumed. Brands must innovate quickly to stay ahead of competitors leveraging AI-driven trends and customization.
- Shifting Consumer Behavior: Younger generations prioritize values like inclusivity, sustainability, and ethical production. Brands that fail to align with these shifts risk losing relevance in a rapidly evolving market.
Five Key Focus Areas for Designers and Brands Moving Forward
- Sustainability: With growing environmental concerns, brands must commit to sustainable practices throughout their supply chains—from sourcing materials to manufacturing and waste reduction.
- Artificial Intelligence: AI is revolutionizing the fashion industry, from predicting trends to creating personalized shopping experiences. Designers must leverage these tools to remain competitive.
- Multi-Use Fashion: Versatility is key in the modern wardrobe. Consumers are looking for pieces that can transition from day to night, work to weekend, and be styled in multiple ways.
- Cultural Inclusivity: Designers must continue pushing boundaries to reflect the diversity of their audiences. This includes representing different body types, genders, and cultural backgrounds on the runway and in marketing.
- Adaptation to Consumer Habits: Consumers now demand immediate access to collections, whether through direct-to-consumer platforms or see-now-buy-now models. Brands must keep up with this fast-paced demand.
Conclusion
Paris Fashion Week remains the pinnacle of global fashion, but its future success will rely on how well designers and brands adapt to these evolving trends and challenges. With creativity at its core, the city of Paris continues to inspire innovation in fashion, ensuring its position as the heartbeat of the fashion world. As we move into the future, the industry must embrace change—whether through sustainability, technological advancements, or more inclusive designs—to thrive in the ever-shifting landscape of fashion.
Stay tuned as I delve deeper into the standout moments and personal insights from this season’s collections below – pointing out achievements and challenges.
Louis Vuitton:
The Louis Vuitton Women’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection, presented in Paris, showcased the brand’s mastery of duality—where softness meets strength, and fluidity dances with precision. Nicolas Ghesquière’s designs expertly played with contrasts, creating a harmonious tension between ethereal elegance and structured silhouettes. This season saw elements of artistic collaboration, with pieces featuring works by Laurent Grasso, adding a thought-provoking layer of cultural depth. Accompanied by Jamie XX’s atmospheric music, the show delivered a sensory experience that embodied the intersection of art, fashion, and movement. It was a testament to Louis Vuitton’s ongoing evolution, pushing boundaries while staying rooted in a legacy of craftsmanship and innovation.
At the point of sale, I expect this collection to resonate deeply with luxury consumers, especially those seeking pieces that balance timelessness with a contemporary edge. The collaboration with Laurent Grasso introduces an exclusive, artful appeal that collectors will likely gravitate toward. Retailers will find that these garments, with their emphasis on fluidity and bold yet wearable artistry, will stand out on the racks. The rich textures, intricate details, and deliberate contradictions will make these items conversation starters, appealing to women who appreciate both the narrative and aesthetic richness of high fashion. This collection, in my opinion, will translate exceptionally well in the luxury market, commanding attention with its mix of sophistication and bold innovation.
Rabanne:
A model wearing an original creation from the womenswear spring summer 2025 ready to wear collections in Paris from the house of Rabanne
A model wearing an original creation from the womenswear spring summer 2025 ready to wear collections in Paris from the house of Rabanne
As the editor of StyleLujo.com, I found Rabanne’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection to be a striking fusion of avant-garde craftsmanship and wearable elegance. Julien Dossena masterfully combines the industrial and futuristic, using unexpected materials like foiled guipure lace and silvery jacquards, which evoke both the utilitarian feel of packaging and the sleekness of modernity. The collection transitions effortlessly between preppy Parisian influences and daring designs, with rugby tops morphing into silver-lined windbreakers, and classic menswear silhouettes reimagined with drawstring waists. The use of mint, rose, lilac, and baby blue further heightens the juxtaposition between softness and edge. The interplay between casual daily wear—like the parachute blouson in chambray—and opulent fabrics like embroidered geometric panels gives this collection a unique duality, making it both approachable and highly sophisticated.
However, in today’s sluggish economy, Dossena and his team will face challenges in resonating with a more segmented consumer market. High-end, experimental fashion, while captivating, may struggle to find its footing among buyers who are increasingly focused on investment pieces with practical longevity. The launch of the Artisan Editions, featuring meticulously crafted bags and dresses, highlights the brand’s commitment to material innovation and artisanal craftsmanship, but the price point of such labor-intensive pieces might deter broader market adoption. To succeed, Rabanne will need to emphasize the timeless quality and artistry of these creations while also adapting to a consumer base that seeks both exclusivity and value in an uncertain financial landscape.
CFCL:
At Paris Fashion Week’s opening, CFCL’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection captured the essence of their unique fusion of craftsmanship and cutting-edge technology. Held at the Saut du Loup in the Palais de Tokyo, the show was a vibrant blend of 3D knitting techniques and artisanal handwork, set against an immersive musical backdrop by Slovenian trio Širom. The brand continues to push the boundaries of knitwear by merging two-dimensional traditional methods with three-dimensional technological innovation. CFCL’s bold exploration of ethnic inspirations, from the flat ethnic costumes of Africa to the intricate “Chusen” Japanese dyeing techniques, highlighted their commitment to storytelling through fabric and design. With sustainability deeply embedded in their DNA, the collection emphasizes the use of recycled materials and low-waste production, aligning with CFCL’s B Corp certification and pledge to achieve full carbon neutrality by 2030.
CFCL’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection masterfully marries innovation with craftsmanship, but the reliance on complex knitwear techniques presents challenges. While their avant-garde approach to sustainable fashion sets them apart, the intricate designs, such as the crochet patchwork and fringed dresses, could struggle with broader commercial appeal. There’s a delicate balance between pushing creative boundaries and ensuring wearability, and CFCL’s focus on sustainability may come with the tradeoff of higher costs. As the brand continues to innovate, expanding into larger markets without compromising on its ethical ethos will be key, especially in a competitive fashion landscape that is increasingly focused on eco-consciousness and technological advancements. CFCL must ensure that its emphasis on cutting-edge design doesn’t overshadow accessibility or alienate potential consumers looking for practicality alongside innovation.
Chloé:
From my perspective, Chloé‘s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a celebration of effortless femininity and the liberating spirit of summer. Chemena Kamali has masterfully captured the essence of Chloé’s roots by blending sensuality with the carefree mood of the season. The sun-faded fabrics, ethereal silks, and delicate laces create a collection that feels intimate and personal, evoking the softness of warm, languid days. I particularly appreciate the subtle interplay of textures, like guipure lace and cotton jersey, and the dreamy palette of sun-washed colors that speak to nostalgia and relaxation. The reworked 1977 floral print is a beautiful nod to Chloé’s rich heritage, and the collection’s accessories, from crocheted bags to whimsical shell charms, add a playful, almost childlike joy to the looks. Kamali’s creative vision breathes new life into Chloé’s signature romanticism, crafting pieces that feel lost and found, just as summer memories often do.
On the other hand, while the collection is undeniably poetic, its delicate, sun-faded palette and airy silhouettes might not resonate with consumers seeking more structured or bold seasonal statements. The vintage-inspired details, like the iconic 70s bloomers and lace-edged henleys, while charming, could feel overly nostalgic for some, potentially limiting their appeal in today’s fashion landscape where innovation is highly prized. Additionally, Chloé’s understated elegance may face challenges standing out in the highly competitive luxury market, where more assertive branding and avant-garde designs often steal the spotlight. Balancing the brand’s storied heritage with contemporary relevance will be key as Chloé navigates an evolving fashion world that increasingly demands both timelessness and innovation.
Dries Van Noten:
Dries Van Noten’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection, designed by the studio in Antwerp, is a vibrant and eclectic journey through the designer’s signature language, reinterpreted with a fresh, optimistic lens. The collection is an homage to nature, with exaggerated florals and patterns that playfully blur the lines between realism and abstraction. Silhouettes range from wide-shouldered suiting with cinched waists to flowy slip dresses and lingerie-inspired pieces, all balanced by a casual, boyish focus on Bermudas. Luxurious fabrics like silk georgette, satin, and jacquard are treated with intricate techniques such as plissé, cloqué, and laser-treated denim, offering a rich tactile experience. Vivid, ultra-saturated colors like orange, lime green, and turquoise dominate the palette, with opulent prints and embellishments adding layers of depth. The show’s styling, with undone coats and rolled sleeves, reflected a relaxed yet polished attitude, further enhanced by bold accessories like python-print bags, corsetry-inspired shoes, and sculptural silver jewelry.
Despite the artistic brilliance and visual appeal of the collection, it may encounter challenges when transitioning from runway to retail. The exaggerated use of prints and bold color combinations, while striking, could be difficult to translate into more wearable, everyday pieces for a wider audience. Additionally, the luxurious fabrics and intricate detailing, such as hand-applied silver embroideries and sequins, are likely to drive up production costs, potentially limiting accessibility. Retail success may hinge on Dries Van Noten’s ability to offer more commercial versions of these high-concept designs without sacrificing the brand’s signature creativity and craftsmanship. The collection’s avant-garde nature will likely resonate with fashion-forward consumers, but balancing this with practical wearability could be a hurdle.
VETEMENTS:
VETEMENTS’ Spring/Summer 2025 collection, spearheaded by Guram Gvasalia, responds to the shifting landscape of luxury fashion in a time of economic uncertainty. Drawing inspiration from a world grappling with financial instability and the increasing awareness around overconsumption, the collection serves as a bold commentary on redefining fashion’s future. Set against the backdrop of a semi-abandoned mall, the collection embodies a “make new out of old” philosophy, where existing garments are deconstructed, reworked, and transformed into entirely new creations. By repurposing old wardrobe staples, VETEMENTS challenges the traditional notions of luxury, where opulence is replaced by an innovative DIY spirit. The designs embrace raw, unfinished aesthetics, imperfections, and unconventional materials, speaking to a world where scarcity breeds creativity and where personal expression trumps polished excess.
Point of Sale Perspective:
From a retail standpoint, this collection holds immense potential. As consumers become more conscious of sustainable practices and wary of the traditional luxury model, VETEMENTS’ collection taps directly into this growing mindset. The deconstructed, repurposed garments resonate with a demographic seeking authenticity and individuality over brand-new, high-priced luxury items. The inclusive ethos of VETEMENTS—where one can engage with the brand without purchasing a piece—creates a unique point of connection at the store level, fostering a sense of community and belonging. This shift in consumer sentiment is likely to perform well at point of sale, particularly as shoppers gravitate toward collections that allow them to feel part of a movement rather than simply buying into fleeting trends. By embracing this approach, the brand positions itself not only as a purveyor of fashion but as a leader in redefining the future of luxury
Alain Paul:
Luca Tombolini
As an editor at StyleLujo, I find Alain Paul’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection a masterful display of artistry that marries the precision of ballet with the fluidity of fashion. Drawing inspiration from the intimate gestures of a dancer’s morning class, Paul’s collection transcends conventional boundaries through his innovative use of skewed forms, elongations, and compressions. His reinterpretation of ballet tights, tailored outerwear, and asymmetrical silhouettes pushes the limits of both movement and materiality. The homage to Merce Cunningham’s improvisational choreography and the transparent, shell-like crin dresses evoke a sense of physical extension that artfully balances the rigidity of structured garments with the grace of human movement. Paul’s thoughtful incorporation of elements like the Pina Mule—evoking the pointe shoe—further highlights his ability to seamlessly blend technical rigor with avant-garde elegance, a skill undoubtedly shaped by his years with fashion icons like Virgil Abloh and Demna Gvasalia.
However, as stunning as the collection is, there are notable challenges in translating its conceptual brilliance into commercial viability, especially amid the current sluggish global economy as we approach the U.S. elections in November. While Paul’s approach to improvisation and body movement is a visual and intellectual feast for those well-versed in fashion or ballet, the asymmetrical, distorted silhouettes might alienate more conservative consumers looking for wearability and functionality. The collection’s reliance on high-concept artistry, though admirable, runs the risk of being inaccessible in a market still grappling with post-pandemic financial instability. For Alain Paul to secure a sustainable foothold in the industry, I would advise finding a balanced approach that retains his distinct vision while offering more commercially viable pieces that resonate with a broader audience, particularly as economic uncertainty continues to loom.
Christian Wijnant:
As a fashion editor with years of experience, I find Christian Wijnants‘ Spring/Summer 2025 Collection a demonstration of calmness and modernity. The designer’s ability to create serenity through fashion is beautifully reflected in the soft tailoring and the thoughtful interplay of form-fitting designs with relaxed, flowing elements. His reimagining of house codes—combining corsetry with elongated silhouettes and easy outerwear—feels fresh and contemporary. The crochet and macramé pieces, inspired by textile artist Mrinalini Mukherjee, add a remarkable artistic touch, transforming fabric into sculptural works of art. This collection, with its muted palette and emphasis on architectural cuts, is a breath of fresh air for the summer season—effortlessly combining elegance and modernity.
However, while the collection’s calm and introspective ethos is admirable, the restrained color palette and minimalist approach may not resonate with those seeking bolder, more dynamic fashion statements. Additionally, the fusion of traditional tailoring with looser, more casual elements can present a challenge for the average consumer, who may find the silhouettes difficult to wear in day-to-day settings. The emphasis on 3-dimensional crochet and voluminous shapes, while artistically striking, could risk alienating those looking for more practical summer staples. Balancing creativity with wearability remains an ongoing challenge, particularly in today’s highly competitive fashion market.
Christopher Esber:
Christopher Esber’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection, presented at the Palais de Tokyo during Paris Fashion Week, captivated with its exploration of dualities—merging ethereal lightness with controlled structure. The collection drew inspiration from 1950s undergarments, using lace, silk, and chiffon to create fluid, vapor-like silhouettes that elegantly draped and wrapped around the body. Esber’s signature attention to texture was on full display, with hand-beaded ostrich feathers and fine muslin forming garments of delicate transparency, evoking the weightlessness of a dandelion. The palette ranged from soft whites and creams to bold blacks, with pieces like meticulously tailored black linen dresses and intricate, resin-accented garments adding a sophisticated edge to the otherwise airy designs. The collection’s fluidity and sculptural elements highlighted Esber’s expertise in blending the past with a modern, tactile vision.
At the retail level, Esber’s SS25 collection may face challenges in balancing its avant-garde aesthetic with commercial appeal. The intricate craftsmanship—particularly the hand-beaded feathers and fluid metal hardware—could translate into higher production costs, making the collection more suited for high-end, niche markets. Additionally, while the ethereal, transparent fabrics and voluminous silhouettes are visually arresting on the runway, they may pose practical concerns for everyday wear. Retail success may depend on the brand’s ability to adapt these striking designs into more wearable, versatile pieces, without compromising the artistry that defines Esber’s vision.
Giambattista Valli:
Giambattista Valli’s designs embody the philosophical tension between lightness and weight, a concept beautifully captured in Milan Kundera’s The Unbearable Lightness of Being. Valli’s vision explores the paradox of “le poids de la légèreté”—the weight of lightness—where freedom, transience, and beauty carry their own existential gravity. His obsession with creating timeless allure and silhouettes speaks to a future-focused mindset that is always evolving, where fashion becomes more than a fleeting moment but a reflection of personal freedom and movement. Valli’s work, much like his philosophy, is about creating harmony amidst contradictions, offering a vision where the sun always shines on those who dare to embrace the nomadic mind.
However, in today’s ever-shifting retail climate, this emphasis on timelessness and artistry faces significant challenges. The rapid evolution of consumer behavior, the rise of fast fashion, and the demand for instant gratification often clash with Valli’s commitment to building enduring allure and rejecting mere marketing trends. Additionally, economic pressures and the need for sustainability create tension with traditional fashion cycles. For a brand that prides itself on thought-provoking design and deep cultural resonance, adapting to these external forces without compromising its artistic integrity requires careful navigation and innovation.
HELIOT EMIL:
HELIOT EMIL’s SS25 collection, “CULTURAL CONSTRUCT ARTIFICIAL LANDSCAPE,” delves into the intricate interplay between nature and artifice, inspired by Olafur Eliasson’s Riverbed installation. Just as Eliasson transformed the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art into an artificial volcanic landscape, HELIOT EMIL manipulates textures and fabrics to evoke natural elements like rivers, stones, and glaciers. With a color palette inspired by Iceland’s raw landscapes—volcanic black, stone grays, and glacier whites—the collection fuses HELIOT EMIL’s signature technical precision with organic forms, creating garments that balance industrial minimalism with natural fluidity. An installation made of electrochromic glass, in collaboration with ENCOR studio, further explores the tension between the artificial and the natural, a theme also echoed in the collection’s wearable glass sculptures and two notable collaborations with PUMA and STACCATO. These partnerships blend HELIOT EMIL’s utilitarian elegance with the technical expertise of sportswear and footwear design, enhancing the collection’s exploration of form and function.
However, in a rapidly evolving retail landscape, HELIOT EMIL faces challenges that arise from the brand’s commitment to conceptual design and industrial elegance. As consumers increasingly demand sustainability and quick fashion cycles, the juxtaposition of organic and artificial themes might be at odds with the fast fashion culture that dominates the market. HELIOT EMIL’s technical craftsmanship and avant-garde approach risk alienating mainstream consumers in an industry that values immediacy and cost-efficiency over thoughtful design. Additionally, balancing innovative collaborations while maintaining brand identity may prove difficult as competition intensifies. Navigating these commercial pressures while upholding the brand’s artistic vision will be crucial in ensuring its relevance in this changing climate.
Dé Moo:
Dé Moo’s S/S 2025 collection marks a bold new chapter for the brand, blending contrasting elements to create a harmonious vision of modern fashion. The collection explores the balance between solidity and softness, the masculine and the feminine, and the old versus the new. These contrasts come together in a seamless, fluid expression that feels both timeless and forward-thinking. Debuting for the first time in Paris, the S/S 2025 line emphasizes “connectivity” as envisioned by the brand’s Creative Director, merging different influences into a cohesive whole. This interplay of dark and light, rigid and soft, embodies the brand’s philosophy of unity through contrast, creating pieces that are elegant yet versatile, refined yet approachable.
In a rapidly changing retail landscape, Dé Moo’s S/S 2025 collection faces several potential challenges. As the fashion industry increasingly gravitates towards sustainability, inclusivity, and immediate consumer gratification, balancing artistic vision with commercial viability can be difficult. The brand’s focus on contrasts and nuanced design may risk alienating fast-fashion-driven consumers who prioritize accessibility and trend turnover. Moreover, the global push for transparency and eco-friendly practices adds pressure on luxury brands like Dé Moo to innovate in both materials and production methods, without sacrificing quality. Navigating these expectations while maintaining their creative integrity will be crucial as Dé Moo works to solidify its place in the competitive high-fashion world.
ANREALAGE:
For the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, designer Kunihiko Morinaga introduces a cutting-edge, wind-inspired fashion line that blends creativity with technological innovation. In collaboration with KUCHOFUKU, a leader in fan-equipped garments, Morinaga has crafted a “cool-wear” wardrobe designed to combat rising temperatures, especially in Japan. The standout feature is the use of WIND, with tiny embedded fans inflating dresses and jackets, creating surreal silhouettes reminiscent of windsocks or bubble-like forms. The lightweight, windproof fabrics—developed from ultra-thin nylon—balance function and whimsy, while pieces featuring Kyocera’s sustainable inkjet technology add colorful, ever-shifting patterns that dance with the breeze as models cross the runway. The concept is playful and forward-thinking, showcasing Morinaga’s signature approach of blending fashion and technology to address real-world problems while sparking the imagination.
While the innovation is commendable, the challenging aspect of the collection lies in the practical execution of such avant-garde designs. The use of embedded fans and inflatable garments, while visually stunning, raises questions about everyday wearability and durability. Additionally, although the windproof, thermo-protective pieces offer practicality, their exaggerated shapes and proportions may not appeal to all consumers. The balance between artistic expression and functional fashion presents both an opportunity and a hurdle for wider market adoption. However, Morinaga’s bold vision and sustainable practices signal a positive direction for the future, as he continues to push the boundaries of what fashion can achieve in an increasingly unpredictable world.
KIMHĒKIM:
The women’s portion of Maison KIMHĒKIM’s Spring/Summer 2025 ‘Dreamers’ collection embodied a sense of whimsical luxury, blending couture with a surrealist take on everyday items. Models floated down the runway in strapless tops that resembled pillows and draped dresses evoking the soft elegance of blankets, a creative interpretation of dream-filled nights. The silhouettes were fluid and relaxed, with trench coats effortlessly layered over these sleepwear-inspired pieces. The use of soft, dreamy colors, like the pink spray printing, and the handwritten prints, inspired by notes taken just after waking, gave the collection a personal and intimate feel. The collection’s nod to cultural dream icons like Marilyn Monroe added a nostalgic yet modern flair, while the collaboration with 111SYRI on the runway soundtrack further amplified the ethereal mood.
From a commercial perspective, while the collection’s artistry and dream-inspired designs make a strong visual impact, the challenge lies in how these imaginative pieces will translate to consumer wardrobes. Concepts like pillow-inspired tops and couture-level blanket dresses are likely to appeal to a niche segment, perhaps those looking for avant-garde, statement pieces. However, the more wearable elements, such as the trench coats and minimalistic dresses, could find broader appeal, especially for consumers who enjoy fashion with a playful twist. The brand’s focus on analog experiences and creativity might resonate with Gen X, but for commercial success, Maison KIMHĒKIM may need to balance its dreamlike designs with more functional and versatile options to attract a wider audience at point of sale.
GERMANIER:
GERMANIER PARIS FASHION WEEEK SS25 43 RUE DES ACACIAS 75017 PARIS
GERMANIER PARIS FASHION WEEEK SS25 43 RUE DES ACACIAS 75017 PARIS
As an editor at StyleLujo, I find Kevin Germanier’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “Les Désastreuses”, a testament to his unrelenting commitment to redefining contemporary fashion through sustainable innovation. The collection’s use of upcycled materials, such as plastic curtains and VHS tape remnants, not only highlights Germanier’s mastery of transforming discarded items into avant-garde couture but also speaks to the broader philosophy of sustainability that runs through the heart of the brand. Germanier’s zodiac-inspired creations—each designed to evoke the unique essence of the stars—underscore a rare blend of creativity and ecological responsibility. His approach transcends mere fashion; it offers a poignant reflection on how luxury can reconcile with environmental concerns in a world desperate for change. This collection is a vivid reminder that true luxury lies in the ability to craft beauty from what others overlook, making Germanier a leader in this transformative movement.
However, despite its brilliance, “Les Désastreuses” presents challenges that warrant consideration. While the intricate storytelling and craftsmanship are undeniable, the collection’s heavy reliance on conceptual designs may limit its commercial accessibility. For example, the Uranus-inspired look, while a standout in creativity, may be too avant-garde for the everyday consumer, posing questions about the balance between artistry and wearability. Moreover, the eccentric collaboration with Havaianas—creating a couture look entirely from flip-flops—though clever, risks becoming a novelty rather than a lasting trend. My professional advice would be for Germanier to continue exploring this unique narrative-driven design ethos, but with a focus on bridging the gap between avant-garde artistry and practical wearability to secure wider market traction. As he supports the next generation of designers, his influence on the fashion world will only deepen, but a more refined balance between commercial viability and creative expression will be essential for sustained growth over the next five years. Germanier’s vision is nothing short of inspiring, yet the future success of his brand lies in translating his bold, sustainable innovations into garments that resonate with a broader audience.
Wild Rose & Sparrow:
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 26: A model poses on the runway during Wild Rose & Sparrow SS25 PFW Runway Show, Nuit Au Ballet as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images for Wild Rose & Sparrow)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 26: A model poses on the runway during Wild Rose & Sparrow SS25 PFW Runway Show, Nuit Au Ballet as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images for Wild Rose & Sparrow)
Wild Rose & Sparrow’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection, unveiled during Paris Fashion Week, delivered a stunning fusion of fashion and art with its ballet-core inspired theme. Held at the historic Théâtre du Gymnase Marie Bell, the show featured a captivating three-act presentation inspired by timeless ballets such as Coppélia, La Sylphide, and A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Designer Ariana Dancu’s vision came to life through twenty intricately crafted styles, from ethereal tulle-layered tutus to corsets adorned with lace and sequins, perfectly capturing the essence of romance and feminine grace. The ballet performances that opened the show elevated the presentation, seamlessly integrating movement and fashion, leaving a lasting impression on the audience.
While the collection’s high-concept design is likely to appeal to a niche market, there could be challenges at the retail level. The intricate embroidery, delicate fabrics, and couture-like details, though visually stunning, may limit accessibility for a wider audience. High production costs and the niche appeal of ballet-core fashion might make it difficult for these pieces to translate into mass market sales. Additionally, the heavily theatrical designs may require careful curation when transitioning from runway to retail, as customers may find some pieces impractical for everyday wear. Balancing creativity with commercial viability will be key for Wild Rose & Sparrow’s success in the SS25 season.
Vaquera:
As editor of StyleLujo, I appreciate Vaquera’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for its bold reimagining of the brand’s rebellious roots, merging subversive fashion with newfound wearability. Celebrating its 10-year milestone, Vaquera reflects a matured confidence, translating its once-extreme ideas into “New Basics” that are as practical as they are provocative. The fusion of American sportswear and classic luxury through a futuristic lens demonstrates a compelling evolution in Vaquera’s design philosophy. The collaboration with Onitsuka Tiger stands out as a highlight—hand-washed, distressed Mexico 66 sneakers emblazoned with “LOVE” and “RAGE” convey the brand’s ethos of emotional ambivalence while maintaining a striking, street-ready appeal. The introduction of footwear, accessories, and sunglasses extends Vaquera’s reach, particularly with cowboy boots that nod to the brand’s namesake, yet reinvent the classic Western staple with contemporary flair.
While Vaquera’s forward-thinking designs continue to challenge the conventional, the shift toward commercial wearability presents its own hurdles. The focus on “New Basics” and the infusion of American sportswear into the mix may risk alienating the brand’s core audience, who have long embraced its anti-establishment ethos. As the brand ventures into more accessible territory, including accessories and jewelry collaborations, the challenge will be to maintain its distinctive subversive narrative without diluting the essence that has made Vaquera a critical, if niche, force in fashion. Moreover, in a global market facing economic uncertainty, as the world anticipates the U.S. elections in November, the brand will need to carefully balance artistic vision with market demands, ensuring its audacious aesthetic continues to resonate both creatively and commercially.
Cecilie Bahnsen:
As the editor of StyleLujo.com, I was deeply captivated by Cecilie Bahnsen’s SS25 collection, which masterfully fuses her signature ethereal femininity with the resilience and technical brilliance of outdoor wear. The collection’s collaboration with The North Face offers a fascinating juxtaposition of couture and practicality, exemplified through pieces like recycled polyester windbreakers layered over delicate floral-trimmed shorts. The symbolism of the skeleton flower—a motif representing both strength and transparency—runs throughout the collection, adding a mystical edge to otherwise utilitarian designs. Bahnsen’s dedication to craftsmanship is clear in her use of voluminous skirts, intricate fil-coupé embroidery, and striking midnight blue hues inspired by the mountains around Tokyo. The result is a visually stunning collection that marries nature’s raw beauty with urban sophistication, seamlessly blending mountaineering aesthetics with couture elegance.
However, as Bahnsen ventures into this new territory, particularly in light of a debut collaboration with The North Face and a continued partnership with Asics, she faces the challenge of appealing to a more fragmented consumer base amidst economic uncertainty. Her technical innovations and artistic exploration of couture fabrics will need to resonate with a market increasingly concerned with functionality and durability, especially in a post-pandemic landscape where investment in luxury fashion is tempered by practicality. Moreover, balancing the demands of high-end fashion with outdoor performance wear will require Bahnsen to navigate a delicate line between exclusivity and accessibility, particularly as she attempts to engage both traditional luxury consumers and a growing demographic interested in wearable, performance-driven couture.
Ottolinger’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, showcased at Paris Fashion Week, delivered a bold and avant-garde statement. Known for its deconstructed and experimental approach, the collection featured an array of asymmetrical silhouettes, sheer fabrics, and daring cutouts, offering a unique juxtaposition of futuristic tailoring and organic shapes. The color palette moved from muted earth tones to vibrant splashes of neon, while the use of unconventional materials like mesh, vinyl, and distressed denim added a sense of rawness to the overall aesthetic. Accessories were equally boundary-pushing, with exaggerated, sculptural footwear and intricate jewelry completing the futuristic, almost dystopian, vibe of the collection. Ottolinger’s signature fusion of art and fashion was unmistakable, offering a conceptual yet wearable vision for SS25.
Ottolinger:
Despite the runway buzz, Ottolinger may face challenges translating this avant-garde collection to the retail space. The brand’s emphasis on unconventional cuts, fabrics, and silhouettes, while striking on the runway, may not appeal to the broader market where consumers often prioritize practicality and wearability. Retail buyers may be hesitant to invest heavily in pieces that require a certain level of sartorial confidence and avant-garde sensibility to pull off, limiting mainstream appeal. Additionally, the premium pricing associated with intricate, high-concept designs could present further challenges at the point of sale, particularly in a competitive market where consumers are increasingly cost-conscious and drawn to brands that balance innovation with affordability and everyday usability.
Lutz Huelle:
On September 30th, 2024, in Paris, I attended the Lutz Huelle SS 25 collection, a brilliant fusion of formal archetypes with a contemporary twist. The collection played with the boundaries between menswear and womenswear, creating hybrid pieces that redefine traditional tailoring. A standout element was the men’s suit jacket cut at the waist and transformed into a skirt, embodying the fluidity of the collection. Huelle’s exploration of proportions, such as oversized cotton poplin shirts restructured for slim, elongated silhouettes, exuded a relaxed yet polished vibe. The inclusion of tailored shorts with a fluid viscose base, and intricate details like lace and pleating, added a layer of sensuality and playfulness, making the collection both innovative and effortlessly chic. Huelle’s ability to integrate textures, from wool and denim to satin and lace, created a visual dialogue between classic elegance and modern experimentation.
While the collection’s creativity was undeniable, the challenges it may face at the point of sale are significant. The intricate designs and unconventional silhouettes, such as suits cut into skirts and layered fabrics, may be too avant-garde for mainstream commercial success. The use of delicate lace and flowing scarves, while visually captivating on the runway, could pose difficulties in practical wearability, especially for consumers seeking versatility in their wardrobes. Moreover, the collection’s high-fashion aesthetic, with its heavy emphasis on artistic interpretation, may face resistance in retail environments where more commercially viable, everyday pieces are preferred. Nonetheless, for fashion-forward buyers and those who seek to push boundaries, Lutz Huelle’s SS 25 line stands as a striking and thought-provoking addition to the contemporary fashion landscape.
Enfants Riches Déprimés:
Enfants Riches Déprimés SS25 Collection
In the echoing halls of Sotheby’s Paris, Enfants Riches Déprimés unveiled their SS25 collection, merging the macabre with the luxurious in a striking display of deconstruction. Each piece seemed to wage war against the constructs of societal norms, with antique silver embellishments glinting through raw seams and harsh silhouettes. The juxtaposition of opulence with themes of repression, embodied by self-binding details and youthful, skin-baring designs, offered a brutal critique of modern consumption. ERD’s exploration of forced assimilation and the worship of wealth invited viewers to confront their own complicity in these systems. It was a visceral presentation that lingered, leaving the audience to question the silent oppressions shaping their lives.
Challenges at Point of Sale with Consumers
While Enfants Riches Déprimés successfully generates buzz with its avant-garde runway displays, the challenge arises at the point of sale. The brand’s core philosophy, heavily critiquing capitalism and societal excess, clashes with the luxury price tags and exclusivity of its pieces. This contradiction may alienate some consumers who, despite their appreciation of the brand’s rebellious aesthetic, hesitate to purchase due to the perceived irony of buying into the very system ERD critiques. In an echo chamber of high art and fashion, like Sotheby’s, the collection’s message resonates deeply, but the challenge is converting this resonance into sales without diluting its anti-establishment ethos.
Walter Mendez:
Walter Mendez’s debut at Paris Fashion Week with his Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “La Vie en Rose,” was nothing short of spectacular. Building on the emotional depth of his previous “Golden Cage” collection, this new offering transported the audience into a world where love, beauty, and freedom blend seamlessly. The collection was a celebration of fluidity, with delicate fabrics moving like soft breezes, and hues inspired by the softness of spring, all adorned with blooming rose motifs in shimmering metallics. Mendez’s designs were masterfully poetic, each gown draped with an elegance that evoked the tenderness of rose petals and the euphoria of young love. As a queer Latin American designer, this moment was deeply personal for Mendez, symbolizing the power of self-expression and the breaking of traditional boundaries. His artistry not only embodied grace but also spoke volumes about the importance of embracing authenticity in fashion.
At the retail level, I believe “La Vie en Rose” will strike a powerful chord with discerning buyers, particularly those drawn to garments that are as emotionally resonant as they are visually captivating. Mendez’s intricate detailing and luxurious fabrics will undoubtedly attract attention from high-end consumers who appreciate couture-level craftsmanship. Retailers can expect these pieces to move well, not just because of their undeniable beauty, but because they offer more than fashion—they offer a story. Women who wear these designs will feel as if they are part of a larger narrative about love, freedom, and identity. This collection’s ethereal charm and romantic sensibility will ensure its success in both luxury boutiques and red-carpet moments, where it will shine as a testament to the designer’s creative vision.
EENK:
EENK’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “A for Aesthetic,” unveiled in Paris, marked a new creative beginning for the brand. After completing its alphabetic journey with “Z” last season, EENK returned to “A” with a fresh sense of renewal. The collection, presented at the sleek SA15 venue, was a stunning exploration of tradition intertwined with modernity, deeply rooted in Korean heritage. Inspired by Jogakbo (traditional Korean patchwork) and Bojagi (wrapping cloth), the designs masterfully blended diverse materials and colors, honoring Korea’s rich aesthetic culture. The soft ivory set design, influenced by Dansaekhwa, a movement in Korean monochrome painting, further emphasized the subtle, refined elegance of the collection. Collaborating with artist Nina Koltchitskaia added another layer of artistry, with relaxed, romantic hues reflecting nature. These elements were seamlessly incorporated into EENK’s signature meticulous detailing, while bold styling, sensory music, and top-tier production created a cohesive and thoughtful presentation.
However, translating the intricacies of “A for Aesthetic” into retail may pose certain challenges. The deeply rooted cultural references, particularly the Korean patchwork and traditional knotting techniques, may not immediately resonate with all global consumers, especially those unfamiliar with these traditions. Retailers may also face the difficulty of positioning these designs at the right price point, given the high level of craftsmanship involved. The collection’s romantic yet structured silhouettes may also require careful marketing to distinguish them from more mainstream offerings, ensuring they are seen as luxury items rather than just unique pieces. Educating buyers about the cultural significance and artisanal work behind these garments will be key in ensuring they stand out at point of sale, and it will take a targeted approach to appeal to the discerning clientele that values such depth in design.
About the Author:
Joseph DeAcetis is a visionary in the world of fashion, renowned as the best wardrobe stylist and art director of his generation. His impressive accolades and unmatched expertise set him apart in the industry. Joseph covers the intersections of style, culture, art, and fashion, with a particular emphasis on the evolving status of menswear.
Throughout his illustrious career, Joseph has penned award-winning columns for top-tier publications such as Esquire, People Magazine, Robb Report, and Playboy. His profound insights and engaging narratives have made him a leading voice in fashion journalism.
Most recently, Joseph served as the creative fashion director for Forbes Media, where he excelled as both a critic and reporter. His extensive body of work highlights the importance of dressing for success and explores how technological advancements are reshaping the fashion industry. Joseph’s authoritative yet approachable voice continues to inspire and influence fashion enthusiasts worldwide.
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