Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton SS26 collection takes center stage in Paris, blending Indian sartorial codes with sun-washed elegance, dandy tailoring, and heritage-infused craftsmanship—set against a life-sized Snakes and Ladders board.
Spring-Summer 2026 menswear is a season of bold storytelling and cultural cross-pollination. From Louis Vuitton’s India-meets-Paris odyssey to the rise of soft tailoring and artisanal textures across runways, SS26 redefines global luxury with heart and heritage.
The menswear season to come unfolded across Florence, Milan, Paris, and London with a renewed sense of purpose. While the spectacle remained, the message was clear: fashion is entering a new era—one that values introspection, craftsmanship, and cultural consciousness over fleeting novelty. From the poetic minimalism of Prada to the theatrical debut of Jonathan Anderson at Dior, this season was less about reinvention and more about recalibration.
Pitti Uomo 108, held at the historic Fortezza da Basso was a defining moment for menswear—one that reaffirmed the industry’s resilience, creativity, and global relevance. As I walked the grounds, it was clear that this edition wasn’t just about numbers—though over 15,000 visitors, including 5,450 international buyers, is no small feat—it was about energy. There was a palpable sense of optimism, a collective commitment to craftsmanship, and a renewed focus on sustainability and storytelling. From the poetic minimalism of HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE’s garden show at Villa Petraia to the sculptural experimentation of Niccolò Pasqualetti and the tactile elegance of Molebo’s Danish leathercraft, the fair offered a rich tapestry of perspectives. As Antonio De Matteis, President of Pitti Immagine, aptly put it, this season was about “courage and responsibility”—and the industry showed both in spades.
Florence’s Pitti Uomo set the tone with a focus on textile innovation and heritage craftsmanship, spotlighting brands like Homme Plissé Issey Miyake and Post Archive Faction. Milan followed with a softened approach to tailoring—Prada’s “Change of Tone” collection emphasized fluidity over formality, while Vivienne Westwood’s return to menswear challenged gender norms with a “Dandy Meets Granny” aesthetic. Paris, as always, delivered the drama: Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton paid homage to India, Saint Laurent staged a cinematic show at the Bourse de Commerce, and Willy Chavarria’s “Huron” collection fused activism with exquisite tailoring. London, though absent from the official calendar, still made waves through off-schedule presentations like Martine Rose’s subversive salon-style show in a job center.
The 10 Biggest Trends in Menswear for SS26
Based on runway analysis and showroom insights2, here are the top trends defining the season:
- Sheer Layers – From Dior to System, transparency symbolized vulnerability and freedom.
- Reconstructed Tailoring – Designers deconstructed suits and tuxedos, layering them with sportswear and streetwear elements.
- Flip-Flops & Foot Cleavage – Yes, toes were everywhere. From Dries Van Noten to Dolce & Gabbana, sandals paired with suiting redefined summer footwear.
- Pyjama Dressing – Silky loungewear and robe-like silhouettes offered a soft rebellion against traditional masculinity.
- Cargo Renaissance – Utility pockets and oversized trousers made a strong return, especially in Anderson’s Dior debut.
- Spiritual Symbolism – Collections like C.R.E.O.L.E.’s “DOM TOP FEVER” and P. Andrade’s “The Tree is Your Spine” explored identity, ancestry, and ecological consciousness.
- Tech-Integrated Textiles – Smart fabrics embedded with blockchain data and UV-reactive codes signaled a new frontier in transparency and traceability.
- Muted Earth Tones – Beige, ivory, and dusty neutrals dominated, often accented with soft pastels or Pan-African color codes.
- Gender Fluidity – Skirts, dresses, and soft silhouettes blurred the lines of traditional menswear.
- Cultural Hybridity – Designers leaned into diasporic narratives, merging global references with local craftsmanship.
AI, the Economy, and the Rise of a New Conservatism
As a professor of menswear and longtime observer of the industry, I believe we’re witnessing a pivotal shift. Artificial Intelligence is no longer a novelty—it’s a tool reshaping every facet of fashion. From predictive analytics and personalized styling to AI-generated design and supply chain optimization, the technology is streamlining operations while expanding creative possibilities. For consumers, this means more relevant products, faster delivery, and deeper engagement. For designers, it’s a chance to focus on storytelling and craftsmanship while letting AI handle the data-driven grunt work.
But amid this technological acceleration, there’s a noticeable lean toward a new conservatism in menswear. A fresh conservatism approach is apparent in menswear- globally. It is in the political sense, modified conservatism being ushered in by President Donald J. Trump and his administration. but it is also an aesthetic and emotional one. Consumers are seeking stability, quality, and meaning. They want garments that last, that tell a story, that feel grounded in something real. This is a response to economic uncertainty, climate anxiety, and digital overload. The future of menswear lies in this balance: embracing innovation without losing the soul of the craft.
As I review the upcoming Spring-Summer 2026 menswear collections, my goal is not simply to celebrate the artistry and vision of each designer, but to engage critically with the collections through the lens of real-world impact. While fashion shows offer a curated dreamscape of creativity, I believe it’s equally important to examine how these ideas translate beyond the runway—into retail environments, consumer behavior, and cultural relevance. My reviews aim to balance admiration with analysis, spotlighting not only what makes a collection compelling, but also the potential hurdles it may face at the point of sale.
This approach allows me to offer a more nuanced perspective—one that considers the evolving expectations of today’s luxury consumer, the shifting dynamics of global markets, and the strategies brands can employ to bridge the gap between concept and commerce. Whether it’s pricing, wearability, or storytelling, I’ll explore how each collection can overcome its challenges and connect meaningfully with its audience. Because in today’s fashion landscape, success isn’t just about vision—it’s about resonance.
As we look ahead, the most successful brands will be those that can navigate this duality—offering both the comfort of the familiar and the thrill of the new. SS26 proved that menswear is not just evolving; it’s maturing. And in that maturity, there’s power.
— Joseph DeAcetis Editor, StyleLujo.com Professor of Menswear, FIT
LOUIS VUITTON MENS:
Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton SS26 collection takes center stage in Paris, blending Indian sartorial codes with sun-washed elegance, dandy tailoring, and heritage-infused craftsmanship—set against a life-sized Snakes and Ladders board.
Pharrell Williams’ Spring-Summer 2026 collection for Louis Vuitton Men’s is a masterclass in cultural reverence and sartorial innovation. Drawing inspiration from the rich visual and tactile language of modern Indian style, the collection is a sensory journey that fuses heritage with high fashion. From sun-faded silks and boucle checks to the revival of the Darjeeling Limited motif, each piece is steeped in narrative and craftsmanship. The show’s scenography—a life-sized Snakes and Ladders board set against the Centre Pompidou—underscored the collection’s themes of chance, elevation, and interconnectedness. With its blend of dandyism, mountaineering, and glamping aesthetics, the collection redefines luxury menswear through a lens of global storytelling and tactile elegance.
However, the collection’s conceptual depth and artisanal complexity may present challenges at the consumer level, particularly in markets where cultural references or avant-garde tailoring may not immediately resonate. The price point and intricate detailing could also limit accessibility for younger or more casual consumers. To bridge this gap, Louis Vuitton would benefit from a tiered storytelling strategy—leveraging digital content, influencer partnerships, and immersive retail experiences to contextualize the collection’s inspirations and craftsmanship. By translating the collection’s narrative into digestible, aspirational moments across platforms, LV can convert admiration into desire, and desire into purchase, ensuring the collection’s commercial success matches its creative ambition.
Amiri:
Mike Amiri’s Spring-Summer 2026 collection is a cinematic reverie—an ode to the hotel as a cultural crossroads and a metaphor for identity in flux. Set within the imagined “Chateau AMIRI,” the collection unfolds like a sunlit sequel to last season’s Club AMIRI, trading nocturnal glamour for morning-after ease. There’s a poetic fluidity in the silhouettes: languid tailoring with softened shoulders, pajama sets reimagined in figured silks, and jacquard hotel slippers elevated to runway status. The palette—sun-bleached mint, raspberry, and pale gold—feels like a memory of summer, filtered through the haze of California light. Amiri’s collaboration with Wes Lang adds a layer of narrative depth, with birds and beaded foliage fluttering across garments like visual footnotes to a story of American myth and modern escapism. It’s a collection that doesn’t just dress characters—it creates them.
Yet, the very dreamlike quality that defines this collection may also present its greatest challenge at the point of sale. The nuanced references to hotel life, the elevated loungewear, and the richly embellished pieces may risk alienating consumers seeking more pragmatic or seasonless investments. To overcome this, AMIRI should lean into immersive storytelling—through in-store installations, digital vignettes, and influencer-driven content that brings the Chateau AMIRI narrative to life. By framing the collection not just as fashion, but as a lifestyle—one rooted in freedom, fluidity, and cultural convergence—AMIRI can convert its cinematic vision into commercial resonance. The key lies in making the fantasy feel personal, wearable, and aspirationally attainable.
Berluti:
A Cinematic Dialogue Between Craft and Character Berluti’s Spring/Summer 2026 presentation, titled Champ-contrechamp, was less a runway show and more a cinematic meditation on legacy, perception, and the anatomy of style. Staged once again at the Simone & Cino Del Duca Foundation—a historic Parisian townhouse overlooking Parc Monceau—the event unfolded across three floors of immersive storytelling. From the monumental sculpture of a foot in the Grand Salon to the Cordovan Room’s tactile homage to leathercraft, each space was a mise-en-scène of the Maison’s savoir-faire. The collection itself was a masterclass in materiality: aloe vera-treated linen, cashmere tweed, Venezia leather, and Berluti’s signature patinas were rendered into featherweight sneakers, sculptural bags, and the ever-iconic Forestière jacket—now reimagined in lilac, lime, and midnight blue. The new Jour de Poche bag, a compact marvel in shades like mimosa and Dark Cherry, and the ultra-light Shadow sneaker—cheekily captioned “Ceci n’est pas une charentaise”—anchored the collection in modern practicality without compromising the house’s artisanal soul.
Balancing Heritage with Relevance in a Shifting Market As Berluti continues to refine its identity under the LVMH umbrella, the brand faces a delicate challenge: how to evolve without eroding the artisanal mystique that defines it. The Maison’s strength lies in its ability to elevate the everyday—shoes, bags, jackets—into objects of quiet luxury. But in a market increasingly driven by digital immediacy and trend volatility, Berluti must ensure that its storytelling remains legible to a younger, global audience. My advice: lean deeper into immersive, tactile experiences like Champ-contrechamp, but pair them with digital narratives that decode the craftsmanship for a broader demographic. Strategic collaborations, limited-edition patinas, and a more visible presence in cultural spaces—film, design, architecture—could help bridge the gap between heritage and relevance. Berluti doesn’t need to chase fashion; it needs to continue shaping the conversation around what fashion can mean when it’s built to last.
AMI:
A Celebration of Parisian Realism and Elegance On Wednesday, June 25th, Alexandre Mattiussi brought the spirit of AMI Paris home—literally—to Place des Victoires, where the brand’s headquarters reside. Against the cinematic backdrop of this historic Parisian plaza, the Spring/Summer 2026 collection unfolded in a circular procession around the statue of Louis XIV, set to the crescendo of Ravel’s Boléro and the nostalgic finale of Piaf’s La Foule. The show was a love letter to the city and to the people who inhabit it—models, collaborators, and guests alike. The collection itself was a masterclass in contrasts: oversized silhouettes met delicate organza, utilitarian workwear softened by knitwear, and a palette that danced between fresh citrus tones and grounded neutrals. Mattiussi’s vision of Parisian chic is not about fantasy—it’s about real life, lived beautifully. The casting reflected this ethos, blending established names like Mona Tougaard and Jeanne Cadieu with promising newcomers, creating a runway that felt inclusive, dynamic, and unmistakably modern.
Navigating Growth Without Losing Soul As AMI Paris continues to expand its global footprint, the brand faces a familiar challenge: how to scale without diluting its essence. Mattiussi’s strength lies in his ability to translate the intimacy of Parisian life into a universal wardrobe—but with increased visibility comes the risk of over-commercialization. The brand must be careful not to lose the spontaneity and sincerity that have made it resonate so deeply. To maintain its authenticity, AMI should continue to root its storytelling in real places, real people, and real emotion—just as it did this season. Embracing slow growth, investing in artisanal collaborations, and preserving the neighborhood spirit that defines its DNA will be key. In a fashion landscape increasingly driven by spectacle, AMI’s quiet confidence and emotional clarity are its greatest assets. The challenge is not to become louder—but to remain unmistakably true.
Jonathan Anderson:
Jonathan Anderson’s Resort Spring 2026 collection for JW Anderson is a masterclass in curatorial storytelling. With instinct as his compass, Anderson weaves together fashion, homewares, and artisanal objects into a cohesive, deeply personal universe. The collection feels like a modern cabinet of curiosities—each piece, from Japanese denim to Irish linen, tells a story rooted in craftsmanship and cultural specificity. The new store concept, with its warm materials and handmade sensibility, reinforces this narrative beautifully. It’s not just a fashion line; it’s a lifestyle vision, one that invites the consumer into Anderson’s world of taste, memory, and meaning.
That said, in an increasingly volatile and saturated marketplace, the brand’s hyper-curated, artisanal approach may face challenges in scalability and accessibility. The very uniqueness that defines JW Anderson could risk alienating broader audiences if not balanced with more entry-point offerings or digital storytelling that demystifies the collection’s depth. My advice: lean into transparency and education. Use immersive content, behind-the-scenes narratives, and collaborations with craftspeople to bring consumers closer to the process. In uncertain times, authenticity and connection are currency—and JW Anderson has both in abundance. The key is making that richness feel inclusive, not esoteric.
Eli Russell Linnetz:
Eli Russell Linnetz’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection for ERL, titled “Poison Ivy,” is a cinematic deep-dive into obsession, identity, and the fragile architecture of masculinity. Set against the backdrop of an elite boarding school, the narrative unfolds through a wardrobe that blurs the lines between fantasy and reality, prep and rebellion. Linnetz’s storytelling is razor-sharp, using fashion as a vehicle to explore the psychological terrain of power, envy, and transformation. The collection’s silhouettes—relaxed tailoring, sun-bleached hues, and baroque florals—are both nostalgic and forward-thinking, capturing a uniquely Californian tension between effortlessness and precision. It’s a richly layered vision of the American man, one that’s as emotionally charged as it is aesthetically refined.
However, as ERL continues to evolve into a more sophisticated and narrative-driven brand, it faces the challenge of maintaining accessibility while deepening its conceptual ambitions. The risk lies in alienating consumers who may not immediately connect with the dense storytelling or unconventional styling. To navigate this, ERL should consider expanding its digital storytelling—think short films, immersive lookbooks, or interactive content that brings the “Poison Ivy” narrative to life beyond the runway. By bridging the gap between high-concept and cultural relatability, ERL can preserve its artistic integrity while broadening its emotional and commercial reach in an unpredictable fashion landscape.
John Lobb:
John Lobb’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection is a masterstroke in balancing heritage with modernity. Rooted in British shoemaking tradition yet confidently anchored in the now, the collection reimagines iconic silhouettes with subtle rock-inspired flair and contemporary ease. From the evolution of the SMITH with its bold single buckle and thick sole, to the refined elegance of the LOPEZ RING and the sporty sophistication of the PACE OVAL, each piece reflects a deep respect for craftsmanship while embracing a more casual, expressive spirit. The use of suede in rich tones like Carbon, the introduction of oval motifs, and the hybrid constructions all signal a brand that is not only preserving its legacy but actively rewriting it for a new generation of discerning wearers.
However, as John Lobb leans further into lifestyle and casual luxury, the brand must navigate the delicate balance between innovation and the expectations of its traditional clientele. The challenge lies in evolving without diluting the core values that define its prestige. To thrive in an increasingly fluid and competitive market, John Lobb should invest in storytelling that bridges its past and present—highlighting the craftsmanship behind each innovation while contextualizing its modern relevance. Limited-edition collaborations, immersive retail experiences, and digital content that demystifies the design process could help the brand connect with younger audiences without alienating loyalists. In a world where authenticity and adaptability are paramount, John Lobb is well-positioned—so long as it continues to articulate not just what it makes, but why it matters.
C.R.E.O.L.E.
C.R.E.O.L.E.’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, DOM TOP FEVER, is a searing, poetic act of reclamation. Rooted in Caribbean identity and diasporic memory, the collection transcends fashion to become a living archive — one that confronts postcolonial trauma, systemic erasure, and the politics of migration with unflinching clarity. Through oversized silhouettes, tactile fabrics, and symbolic color palettes, designer Cédric Charbit crafts a hybrid wardrobe that is both grounded in the everyday and charged with historical resonance. The collection’s references — from the BUMIDOM program to the writings of Fanon and Glissant — are not just intellectual scaffolding; they are woven into the garments themselves, making each piece a vessel of resistance, sensuality, and self-authorship. DOM TOP FEVER is not nostalgia — it’s a radical reimagining of the past through the lens of the present, where fashion becomes a tool for storytelling, healing, and empowerment.
Yet with such a richly layered and politically charged vision, C.R.E.O.L.E. faces the challenge of navigating a commercial fashion landscape that often favors surface over substance. The brand’s strength lies in its depth — but that same depth can risk being misunderstood or underappreciated without the right platforms and partnerships. To thrive, C.R.E.O.L.E. should continue building bridges between fashion, art, and activism, leveraging interdisciplinary collaborations, museum partnerships, and educational content to amplify its message. Limited capsule drops, storytelling-driven campaigns, and immersive digital experiences could help translate the collection’s complexity into accessible entry points for a broader audience. In a world hungry for authenticity and meaning, DOM TOP FEVER proves that fashion can be both beautiful and brave — the key is ensuring its message is heard as loudly as it deserves.
Craig Green:
Craig Green’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection is a haunting meditation on memory, transformation, and the emotional architecture of clothing. Inspired by the prolific creativity of The Beatles and the surrealism of sound, the collection unfolds like a dream played in reverse — familiar yet uncanny. Green’s signature deconstructed silhouettes return with new energy: trench coats with featherlight shirting layers, sweaters unraveling into yarn, and shirts with cascading laces that feel like memories slipping through fingers. The show, set in a cathedral-like space, was both intimate and expansive, with barefoot models walking a sand-covered runway, evoking the tactile residue of time. Military jackets with unfinished stitching, psychedelic flower prints, and garments inspired by dog coats and vintage bedsheets all contributed to a collection that was deeply personal, yet universally resonant. It was a union of past and present, of structure and spontaneity — a poetic unearthing of self.
Yet as Craig Green continues to push the boundaries of menswear with conceptual rigor and emotional depth, the brand faces the challenge of translating its avant-garde vision into broader commercial appeal. The beauty of Green’s work lies in its vulnerability and abstraction, but in a market increasingly driven by immediacy and clarity, there’s a risk of being misunderstood or under-leveraged. To navigate this, Green might consider expanding his storytelling through multimedia — short films, immersive installations, or digital archives that contextualize the garments within their emotional and philosophical frameworks. Collaborations with artists, musicians, or cultural institutions could also help bridge the gap between fashion and narrative art. In a world craving authenticity and meaning, Craig Green’s work is more vital than ever — the key is ensuring it’s not just seen, but deeply felt.
P. Andrade:
P. Andrade’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, The Tree is Your Spine, is a visionary fusion of ancestral wisdom, ecological consciousness, and speculative design. Co-created with artist Samuel de Sabóia, the collection is a poetic meditation on regeneration and the interconnectedness of life. From Brazilian lace reimagined as fungal growth to smart textiles embedded with blockchain-readable binary codes, every element is both symbolic and functional. The garments — layered, organic, and often biomorphic — evoke a living system, where tradition and technology co-evolve. Collaborations with scientists and global brands like Oakley, Levi’s, and Puma further underscore the collection’s ambition: to reframe fashion as a tool for cultural revival and planetary stewardship. It’s not just a collection — it’s a manifesto for a more conscious future.
Yet with such a deeply conceptual and interdisciplinary approach, P. Andrade faces the challenge of maintaining clarity and accessibility in a fast-paced, often trend-driven industry. The brand’s strength lies in its intellectual and ecological depth, but to resonate widely, it must also translate that complexity into compelling, digestible narratives. My advice: invest in immersive storytelling — through short films, interactive digital platforms, and educational content that demystifies the science and symbolism behind the garments. By making the invisible visible — from microbial dyes to encoded fabrics — P. Andrade can turn its innovations into emotional touchpoints. In a fashion landscape hungry for meaning, The Tree is Your Spine offers a blueprint for how design can root us in the past while reaching toward the future.
sacai:
Chitose Abe’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection for sacai, titled Everyday All Day, is a quietly radical ode to the poetry of the ordinary. With her signature hybridization at full tilt, Abe reimagines the everyday wardrobe as a site of transformation — where tuxedo jackets in cotton-cashmere are layered into sculptural forms, and sleeves become architectural statements. The collection blurs the lines between tailoring and utility, softness and structure, offering garments that are as technically intricate as they are emotionally resonant. Collaborations with Carhartt WIP and J.M. Weston inject a grounded grit and heritage craftsmanship, while artist Geoff McFetridge’s dreamlike graphics add a layer of optimism and introspection. The result is a collection that doesn’t shout, but resonates deeply — a wearable meditation on presence, transition, and the beauty of the in-between.
Yet as sacai continues to refine its language of disruption and duality, the brand must remain vigilant about accessibility and relevance in a market that increasingly demands both innovation and immediacy. The complexity of sacai’s garments — their layered construction, asymmetry, and technical detailing — can be intimidating to new consumers or those outside fashion’s inner circles. To bridge this, sacai could benefit from expanding its storytelling through digital platforms that demystify the design process and highlight the functionality behind the form. Interactive lookbooks, behind-the-scenes content, and styling guides could help translate the collection’s conceptual depth into everyday inspiration. In a world that often rushes past nuance, sacai’s strength lies in its ability to slow us down — to make us see the day, and our clothes, differently. The key is ensuring that invitation feels open to all.
SYSTEM:
SYSTEM’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Office Daydream, is a quietly powerful exploration of modern escapism — a wardrobe for those who live in the tension between routine and reverie. Presented at the newly renovated Galerie Clemenceau in Paris, the collection captures the inner world of the urban individual: composed on the outside, yet quietly yearning for freedom. Through sheer fabrics, soft tailoring, and a palette anchored in white and sky tones, the garments evoke the sensation of being swept up by a breeze — light, fluid, and full of possibility. The silhouettes, inspired by 1990s minimalism and infused with sportswear ease, move effortlessly between formality and comfort. With over 300 pieces, the collection offers a refined yet emotionally resonant take on everyday wear, where each look feels like a gentle rebellion against monotony.
However, as SYSTEM continues to expand its global presence, the brand must navigate the challenge of standing out in a crowded contemporary market while maintaining its poetic subtlety. The collection’s strength lies in its emotional nuance and quiet sophistication — but in a digital-first world, that subtlety risks being overlooked without the right amplification. To overcome this, SYSTEM should lean into immersive storytelling and experiential marketing: think short films that visualize the “daydream,” interactive digital lookbooks, or pop-up installations that bring the collection’s themes to life. By translating its introspective vision into sensory experiences, SYSTEM can deepen its emotional connection with consumers and reinforce its identity as a brand that doesn’t just dress the body — it speaks to the soul.
Acne Studios:
A Study in Spontaneity and Subversion Acne Studios’ Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection is a confident continuation of Jonny Johansson’s ongoing exploration of masculinity—this time through the lens of spontaneity, nostalgia, and sartorial friction. Presented as a visual dialogue between eras, the collection imagines its protagonist as a college-age figure in motion: slipping into clothes without calculation, riding a scooter through city streets, and dressing with instinct rather than intention. The silhouettes oscillate between shrunken and oversized, with trousers that echo the volume of joggers, abbreviated shorts, and slim-cut “1979” jeans that nod to archival denim. Sportswear is ever-present, but recontextualized—worn for no sport at all, or layered with tailoring that distorts formality. The palette moves from sun-bleached neutrals to jolts of electric blue and signature pink, while textures—latex-coated denim, silk knits, and checked wools—create a tactile collage of contradictions. Accessories, from cowboy boots to the reimagined Camero bag, reinforce the collection’s intuitive, unbothered charisma. It’s a wardrobe that doesn’t ask for approval—it simply exists, cool and quietly confident.
Balancing Conceptual Cool with Commercial Clarity As Acne Studios continues to evolve its menswear identity, the brand faces a familiar challenge: how to maintain its conceptual edge while ensuring commercial resonance. Johansson’s strength lies in his ability to subvert archetypes—rebuilding the codes of menswear with a wink and a twist—but this very strength can risk alienating consumers who crave clarity in a crowded market. To overcome this, Acne must continue to anchor its experimentation in wearable foundations: denim, outerwear, and accessories that translate seamlessly from runway to retail. Strategic storytelling—through digital platforms, editorial collaborations, and immersive retail experiences—can help decode the collection’s layered references for a broader audience. Acne Studios doesn’t need to dilute its vision; it simply needs to ensure that its message, like its clothes, moves with ease across generations and geographies. In a menswear landscape increasingly defined by extremes, Acne’s nuanced approach to masculinity feels not only relevant—but necessary.
Études Studio:
Études Studio No.27 “Surroundings”
A Living Landscape of Style and Substance Études Studio’s SS26 collection, titled Surroundings, unfolded as a poetic meditation on the artist’s wardrobe—where clothing becomes both canvas and artifact. Presented at the Palais de Tokyo, the show immersed guests in a spiraling installation inspired by Land Art, complete with live percussion and sculptural instruments crafted from reclaimed materials. The garments themselves echoed this conceptual depth: hooded bombers, atelier smocks, and dual-weight coats were rendered in sun-faded denim, ripstop, and organic cottons, their surfaces cracked and weathered like eroded stone. The palette—chalk, ochre, bark, and zinc—felt lifted from both the artist’s studio and the natural world. With embroidered messages like “Alternatives are Possible” and “Second Nature,” the collection extended its dialogue beyond aesthetics, positioning clothing as a form of visual language. The collaboration with artist Maia Ruth Lee added further dimension, embedding themes of memory, displacement, and trace into the very fabric of the garments.
Navigating the Market: From Concept to Connection While Études Studio continues to carve a distinct space at the intersection of fashion and contemporary art, the challenge lies in translating its conceptual depth into commercial relevance—particularly for a younger, digitally native consumer base. Gen Z, while visually literate and culturally curious, often seeks immediacy, accessibility, and emotional resonance in the brands they support. My advice: Études must bridge the gap between gallery and street by amplifying its storytelling across digital platforms—short-form video, behind-the-scenes content, and artist-led collaborations that demystify the process without diluting the message. Limited drops, capsule collections, and wearable art pieces that invite customization or interaction could further engage this audience. The brand’s strength lies in its intellectual rigor and visual poetry—but to thrive in today’s market, it must also speak the language of experience, community, and cultural relevance.
David Catalán:
Tradition Rewired for the Streets David Catalán’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, aptly titled “PROBLEMS,” is a compelling exercise in cultural remixing—where rural Portuguese heritage collides with the codes of contemporary streetwear. Drawing from the manta alentejana, a traditional woven textile, and the pastoral symbolism of guizos (herding bells), Catalán reinterprets these folkloric elements into garments that feel both grounded and globally relevant. Relaxed silhouettes—oversized shirts, utilitarian trousers, and layered outerwear—are rendered in sun-faded stripes and textured weaves that echo the artisanal roots of the collection. The juxtaposition of rigidity and fluidity is key: structured tailoring is softened by draped cuts, while traditional motifs are reimagined through a modern, urban lens. The result is a collection that feels tactile, wearable, and deeply personal—an homage to heritage without being bound by it.
Bridging Heritage and Hype for a New Generation While Catalán’s vision is rich in cultural substance, the challenge lies in translating that depth to a younger, hype-driven consumer base. Gen Z and younger Millennials crave authenticity, but they also respond to immediacy, digital storytelling, and visual impact. My advice: Catalán should lean into the narrative potential of his collections—offering behind-the-scenes content that showcases the craftsmanship, the rural inspirations, and the personal stories behind each piece. Collaborations with local artisans or capsule drops that highlight specific craft techniques could further engage this audience. Additionally, integrating tech-forward retail experiences—AR try-ons, interactive lookbooks, or short-form video campaigns—can help bridge the gap between tradition and trend. Catalán’s strength lies in his ability to make heritage feel current; now, it’s about making that relevance resonate across platforms and borders.
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