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By Joseph DeAcetis Published: January 14, 2024
Milan Fashion Week Men’s A/W 24/25 marked the arrival of style direction-leading into the mid-2020s decade. Forecasting trends lends excellent insight into how men will dress in the coming seasons. More to the point, the Milan runway shows and presentations were richly defined in sartorial expertise yet highly experimental to capture the attention of a hard to predict Gen Z marketplace.
This season, Milan Fashion Week kicked off on a high ($$$$$)note by having billionaire Jeff Bezos at the Dolce & Gabbana show with his wife Lauren Sanchez in tow. And as always, when it comes to Bezos and Sanchez, they were genuinely being themselves. And even though I’m sure that no one looks to Bezos for style advice, he undoubtedly helped set the stage to dream the billionaire’s dream – especially during economic uncertainty, proxy wars and high-inflation. Well, we should all be happy- at least we have Amazon to thank for the ease of shopping for items we can barely afford. But, hey, it’s nice to be reminded of how we all have the opportunity to become billionaires. And, we can all hope times will improve, especially knowing that a new leader will be elected in November 2024.
The week launched with a changing of the guards at Gucci, which seemed to be the most highly-anticipated show as fashion editors, buyers, and influencers waited with bated breath for Sabato De Sarno’s debut menswear collection for Gucci. In short, the show was well-received for De Sarno’s sensual vision.
Fendi was impressive. The presentation made me believe in menswear again. The new collection included coats and knits with leather collars, knitted tanks, fur-esque coats, fitted wide-legged pants, and wide-waled corduroys.
Shows and collections from Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Tod’s, MSGM Zegna, and others will fulfill the schedule. DSquared is having a moment as the denim styles were on trend, paired with cool leather blazers and Canadian trapper hats – go figure.
Meanwhile, this season had familiar brands as newcomers to the runway collections. Stone Island presented their ultra tech-inspired show in a warehouse with mad-cool metallic jackets. Massimo Giorgetti, founder of MSGM, gave a shout-out to famed urban architect Franco Albini, who designed Milan’s M1 metro line, which turns 60 this year. I have never thought Milan’s subway was anything to write home about or dedicate a fashion show to during Milan Fashion Week. The collection aligned with the Red of the subway colors and modular shapes, which lent a feeling of communism to me.
Here is stylelujo.com‘s open round-up, where we review Milan Fashion Week in real-time.
To present the Fall Winter 2024 men’s collection, Creative Director Sabato De Sarno echoes the Gucci Ancora narrative to reset the House’s wardrobe and aesthetic. From the collection, each element mirrors what was seen and reflects the emotions that were felt, this time through the perspective of menswear.
Creative Director Sabato De Sarno rewrites the essential elements of the men’s wardrobe for Fall Winter 2024, just as he did with the women’s for Spring Summer 2024 in September. With the exact same approach, this collection emphasizes the craftsmanship behind the House’s icons and introduces new silhouettes that portray contemporaneity with refinement—and with a bit of a subversive touch.
Formalwear becomes central with two signature silhouettes featuring double-breasted jackets. The first one, close-fitting and paired with cropped trousers, occasionally seen with zipped side slits; the second, with a relaxed fit and archival buttons.
Gucci’s great silk heritage also takes the first step in a new direction with fine interpretations paired with jackets or coats, and fastened with the iconic House’s snap-hook.
Tod’s presents the PASHMY project. The newly developed strategy aims to research the most exclusive and precious materials while highlighting the fine craftsmanship which represent the essence of Italian quality – which is the symbol of Tod’s craftsmanship tradition.
The Pashmy bomber, with its linear lines, features a water repellent and stain-resistant treatment, making it an iconic staple of the male wardrobe. The color palette consists of warm tones of chestnut and écru and cool tones of ice and teal. The well-known W.G. boot is inspired by the “aviator world” comes in a new version influenced by the world of après ski, in leather trimmed sheepskin. And lest we no forget the Bubble Gommino, presented this season in long fur, precious crocodile or in a new cashmere-soft leather, echoing the texture of the clothing. A wide range of brushed versions is also available in natural tones. Lastly, the new urban sneakers take inspiration from saddle stitching, craftsmanship and precious materials codes, giving this style a precise urban message, which combines sporty design with excellent materials. And, the bag collection showcases the iconic Di Bag, in multiple versions: sheepskin or textured leather. It is also available in a more formal version, in tan or in black.
#TodsMaterian #TodsFW24 #Tods @tods
Dolce & Gabbana:
As brands try and appeal to Gen Z, Dolce & Gabbana is taking a modified classic approach set to take on the new generation.
The FENDI design philosophy for AW24/25 is focused on the duality of town and country. Gen Z embraces the country along with its fresh air that all too often inspires new thought. Designed by Artistic Director of Accessories and Menswear Silvia Venturini Fendi, the FENDI Men’s Fall/Winter 2024-25 collection muses on the noble pursuits of the great outdoors, streamlined by the swagger of the city. With tradition and technology in constant dialogue, a masculine wardrobe born from necessity is nuanced with Roman decadence: from the FENDI ateliers, to the world.
Fear of God:
Fear of God presented Fall/Winter 2024 “American Symphony,” a continuation of Fear of God’s perpetual narrative and embodiment of American Luxury.
The Fall / Winter 2024 collection is Informed by the brand’s revelatory Collection 8 presented at the Hollywood Bowl. The new collection extends the design language and preexisting spirit of the house through textured and dimensional fabrics that embody the house’s iconic architectural yet relaxed shapes and proportions.
The collection sees the further evolution of Fear of God’s iconic and unique expression of luxury through an inimitable point of view. You may find the press release attached and hi-res imagery at the link below.
Stone Island presented ‘The Compass Inside’, featuring pieces from the AW ‘024’025 collection, representing the continual research that anchors the brand. Pieces are presented in multiples, to express the authority of communities and uniform.
A hooded down jacket with an effect like liquid glass, created from two layers of organza with a high tenacity nylon base. Nanotechnology is used to infuse aluminium in the polyester organza, so that the metal is attracted into the yarn. Layered over each other, the optical effect is as if the jacket is pure liquid. The jacket features the white Stone Island research badge on the left sleeve.
NYLON METAL IN ECONYL® REGENERATED NYLON WITH PRIMALOFT®-TC, GARMENT DYED
Three pieces made from Stone Island iridescent Nylon Metal fabric in a recycled version. This iconic Stone Island fabric now uses Econyl® regenerated yarns, with, pre- and post-consumer, recycled and processed to create a yarn with the same characteristics of nylon from fossil raw material. A light jacket if fastened with snaps, while two bombers are padded with PrimaLoft®-TC. One of the bombers has a black tape industrial zip, highlighting the inspiration this season from astronaut uniforms. Each of the three pieces has been garment dyed with a double colour recipe.
In this collection Ten c expresses a sort of double soul, combining urban living and military style with a sophisticated, poetic look created by the alchemy of assembling different fabrics and dyes. Handcrafting and manual skill transform materials and colours to give items a new thickness, three-dimensionality and a lived-in look. Like White Sand, used in puffer jackets, with a special procedure involving use of a sandy pigment that corrodes the colour with which the garment was originally dyed, making every single item one of a kind. Another dyeing technique that creates a lived-in look is OJJ Dust, in which the item is overdyed with natural pigments to create effects of depth and wear.
The colors in the collection include black, slate, ice and undergrowth green, with an infinite range of faded hues deriving from the endless possibilities offered by the alchemy of dyeing. Shades of amaranth and periwinkle brighten up the collection’s colour scheme.
Luca Larenza introduced various novelties for the next FW 2024/25 season. For the first time, its colors, typically intense and brilliant, give way to a soft, adult, timeless color palette, including camel, ocher, forest green, creamy white and navy blue. For the first time, its wool embraces cashmere, giving life to vaporous, gracefully oversized styles.
Luca Larenza was born in Caserta. After spending four years in Madrid and a long period in which he explores his passion for graffiti while traveling around Europe. His outfits, and in particular knitwear and outerwear, best express Larenza’s in-depth chromatic study, which offers a strongly contemporary wardrobe that apparently easily mixes innovation and tradition.