Sartorial Totalitarianism: Menswear Classicism Emphasizes Clear Order And Unification In 2024

Classicism is intertwined with strict rules, especially in artistic creation:

Throughout history, this style accelerated into the subconscious of the wealthy townspeople. But it was in the second half of the 19th century, during the French Revolution, that classic fashion and architecture style became the era's style. And to classicism's credit, it resurfaced several times in the 20th century, particularly as a style of totalitarian regimes. For example, Mao Zedong was a proponent of the austerity, strictness, and firm order that Classicism had to offer during his reign in China.  dunhill, the foremost British luxury menswear House, re-introduces its Spring Summer 2024 collection through its seasonal imagery – 'Classicism Now.'’ Lensed by photographer Paul Wetherell and styled by Tom Guinness, an elevated series of portraits defines a new era of refined masculinity for the House.

Unlike the inconvenient menswear styles of the last decade, classicism returns with the simplicity and lightness of clean lines and simple features by highlighting humanistic values of honor, truth, loyalty, devotion, and compassion with concern for family and God. And, stylelujo.com has researched why this trend is on the rise in 2024.

dunhill is a luxury menswear company synonymous sartorial excellence. Synonymous with craftsmanship and menswear design, dunhill is a British men’s luxury House with a history spanning 130 years. dunhill offers a full lifestyle proposition, from refined tailoring and ready-to-wear, to elevated leather goods, exquisite gifting and hard luxury pieces– from its inception in 1893 to the present day and beyond.

The collection highlights elements of modernity and classicism, taking cues from the great status symbols, traditions and heritage of its rich British history. The collection is truly gentleman’s club status – the type of strict and harmonious style worn at the East Hampton Maidstone Club situated on Long Island’s east end.

The Maidstone Club. East Hampton, NY

In the second half of the 17th century, a new artistic direction began, called Classicism, which arose in France and soon spread throughout Europe during the 18th century. Classicism, although inspired by ancient patterns, emphasized moderation and clear order. At that time, Classicism was manifested in literature, painting, music, architecture, and fashion.

Characteristics of Classicism:

  • Valued common sense and clarity.
  • Comprehensive principles 
  • Fixed order 
  • Strict reason takes precedence over feeling. 

Overall, the style represented a converse reaction to the cumbersome and emotionally razzle-dazzle period of Baroque and the flashy Rococo. Paradoxically, the classicism style emphasized comprehensible order. 

Throughout history, this style accelerated into the subconscious of the wealthy townspeople. But it was in the second half of the 19th century, during the French Revolution, that classic fashion and architecture style became the era’s style. And to classicism’s credit, it resurfaced several times in the 20th century, particularly as a style of totalitarian regimes. For example, Mao Zedong was a proponent of the austerity, strictness, and firm order that Classicism had to offer during his reign in China. 

dunhill, the foremost British luxury menswear House, re-introduces its Spring Summer 2024 collection through its seasonal imagery – ‘Classicism Now.’’ Lensed by photographer Paul Wetherell and styled by Tom Guinness, an elevated series of portraits defines a new era of refined masculinity for the House.

To better understand the brand, it is important to know that the attention to detail, excellence, functionality, and a personalised approach epitomises the House. Comprising an elegant line-up including Kit Butler, Henry Kitcher, Woosang Kim, and Pratik Shetty, the cast embodies a bygone nonchalance and relaxed off-duty elevation – ushering in the renewed sense of Classicism imbued by Creative Director Simon Holloway.

For Spring and Summer 2024, a genuinely exquisite wardrobe is punctuated by a distinctly British sensibility and a palpable sense of true luxury. However, the contemporary use of traditional codes make for a modern yet, totalitarian impact. A louche formality sets the tone with an effortless approach to styling, materiality, and color palette. Soft cashmere, leather, and suede are realized in muted hues, neutrals, and rich earth tones alongside classic British navy and iconic English patterns.

For men, the style influences are not so visually evident but rather more of a slight revolutionary protest by a man taking charge of his unified appearance. 

In 2024, the new world empire is sobering up from decades of consumption and debauchery. It is a natural progression for men to lean towards more regimented styles. The primary idea behind Classicism can be identified as restraint, simplicity, elegance, and harmony – with a strong focus on proportion and symmetry – highlighting the regularity of geometry. 

Alongside the portraiture captured in still life by photographer Polly Brown, the 1893 Harness collection, evolved in a tactile cotton wool cashmere woven jacquard, exemplifies Ddunhill’s approach to functionality and design. New season footwear focuses on the Audley Penny Loafer – a sophisticated interpretation of this English silhouette.

Presenting a fresh take on dressing for the discerning man of today, the Spring Summer 2024 imagery eschews trends in favor of timeless style, underpinned by the uncompromising quality and craftsmanship at the heart of this storied house.


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