NYFW SS 25: The History, Evolution, and Top Trends Defining Fashion’s Biggest Event

New York Fashion Week SS 25: From Its Historic Beginnings to Today’s Hottest Trends – A Complete Look at Fashion’s Most Anticipated Week

NEW YORK, NEW YORK - SEPTEMBER 06: A model walks the runway wearing Aiste Hong Spring 2025 at The Harmonie Club on September 06, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Thomas Concordia/Getty Images for Aiste Hong)


New York Fashion Week (NYFW) is one of the most iconic events in the fashion world, and every September, it sets the tone for what we’ll be wearing in the coming seasons. But before we dive into the trends defining Spring/Summer 2025, let’s take a moment to look at the origins of this cultural phenomenon.

NYFW was first launched in 1943 by Eleanor Lambert, an influential publicist who sought to redirect attention from Paris—then considered the center of fashion—during World War II. Called “Press Week,” the event provided a platform for American designers to showcase their collections and gain exposure without needing to travel abroad. The event’s success led to its evolution, and by the 1990s, NYFW had become a global spectacle, synonymous with glitz, glamour, and trend-setting fashion.

Today, NYFW is an economic powerhouse, contributing significantly to New York City’s economy. The event generates approximately $600 million in revenue for the city each year, attracting buyers, media, influencers, and celebrities from all over the world. More than 300 shows and presentations occur during this week, including runway events, pop-up activations, and digital showcases, highlighting both established designers and emerging talents.

At NYFW, we’re witnessing a pivotal moment ripe for a revolution, where artificial intelligence is making significant strides, particularly evident from the fashion panels I moderated two weeks ago at Fashionovation. The integration of AI into fashion isn’t just a trend but a powerful tool poised to reshape the industry. While the impressive Fashionovation demonstrated how AI is transforming both panel discussions and runway shows, it starkly contrasts with the current leadership’s approach.

Ever since TikToker Haley Kalil, who goes by HaleyyBaylee online, apologized for posting a video ( pre-Met Gala) to the “let them eat cake” audio in a Marie Antoinette-inspired look; Gen Z and Gen alpha are all too ready for a fashion coup d’é·tat. And, I stand front and center to lead the charge. Change is good for everyone – so why not start at the top.

Dame Anna Wintour CH DBE is a British-American media executive, who has been serving as editor-in-chief of Vogue since 1988. Wintour, soon to be 75 years old, has also served as global chief content officer of Condé Nast since 2020, where she oversees all Condé Nast publications worldwide, and concurrently serves as artistic director.

But, today, Wintour is often seen as out-of-touch with the American consumer. She epitomizes a fashion icon who, despite her influence, is disconnected from the evolving landscape. Her recent public appearances, including her wearing a pro-Harris for president scarf and presence at the US Open, feel more like political statements and talking points for champagne socialists at Condé Nast rather than genuine fashion leadership. I don’t know about you, but I could care less about where she stands on the voting spectrum. At present, there are dire talking points when it comes to NYFW, such as nationwide sluggish sales, in part, due to high-inflation during these uncertain economic times.

In contrast, AI offers precise data and insights that could reinvigorate the CFDA’s often lackluster collections, aligning more closely with contemporary American womenswear needs. As the industry struggles, embracing AI could be the key to breaking away from outdated and irrelevant representations, paving the way for a fashion future grounded in real-world relevance rather than elite detachment from those in the golden towers pulling the puppet strings. The AI guillotine is not only in sight, but is ready to lead the way. And, here are three important reasons why.

  1. Data-Driven Trend Forecasting: AI can analyze vast amounts of consumer data, including social media trends, purchase behaviors, and search queries, to predict upcoming fashion trends with high accuracy. By leveraging this data, designers and brands can create collections that are more aligned with current consumer preferences, ensuring that their designs resonate with the American audience and reflect contemporary tastes.
  2. Personalized Consumer Insights: AI-powered tools can provide detailed insights into individual consumer preferences and purchasing habits. This allows brands to tailor their designs and marketing strategies to better meet the specific needs and desires of their target audience. For NYFW, this means that designers could showcase collections that are more relevant to American consumers, leading to a stronger connection between the runway and everyday fashion.
  3. Enhanced Design Innovation: AI can assist designers in generating innovative design ideas and optimizing their creative processes. By using AI to analyze past collections, identify gaps in the market, and simulate different design elements, designers can push the boundaries of traditional fashion and introduce fresh, forward-thinking concepts. This can lead to more exciting and relevant collections at NYFW, moving away from repetitive and uninspired designs.

The Top 10 Trends of NYFW SS 25

With the excitement in the air, the Spring/Summer 2025 season is already making waves with bold new ideas and striking reinventions of classics. Here are the top trends that are dominating NYFW so far:

  1. Sheer Everything – Designers are embracing transparency with delicate, airy fabrics that create a balance between sensuality and elegance. Sheer dresses, skirts, and tops are layered for both daytime chic and evening glam.
  2. Oversized Blazers – Power dressing is back in full force with oversized blazers taking the spotlight. Whether paired with structured trousers or styled over dresses, the oversized silhouette adds a modern twist to traditional tailoring.
  3. Bold Florals – Florals, a perennial favorite for spring, are bigger and bolder than ever this season. We’re seeing exaggerated prints with a focus on vivid colors and intricate detailing.
  4. Utility Chic – Function meets fashion with utilitarian looks featuring multiple pockets, durable fabrics, and neutral tones. Jumpsuits, cargo pants, and military-inspired jackets are giving a tough yet stylish edge to SS25 collections.
  5. Statement Fringing – Fringe detailing, seen on everything from dresses to handbags, is making a major comeback. The trend brings a playful, dynamic element to both casual and high-fashion looks.
  6. Maxi Dresses – Flowing, floor-length maxi dresses are dominating runways, offering a breezy, effortless look. Designers are experimenting with voluminous silhouettes and soft, organic fabrics.
  7. Metallic Finishes – High-shine metallics are giving collections a futuristic twist. Whether in the form of shimmering eveningwear or as subtle accents on accessories, this trend is adding a touch of glamour to SS25.
  8. Cut-Out Details – Strategic cut-outs continue to make their mark, offering a bold way to show skin while maintaining a chic aesthetic. Designers are using this trend to emphasize curves and create unexpected focal points in their designs.
  9. Soft Pastels – While bold colors are making statements, soft pastels like lavender, mint, and pale pink are balancing collections with a sense of calm and serenity, perfect for springtime ease.
  10. Tech-Infused Fashion – Innovation meets style with tech-infused designs. From smart textiles that react to the environment to garments designed with sustainability in mind, NYFW SS25 is showcasing the future of fashion.

PatBO:

PatBO’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “Ethereal,” showcased at NYFW, draws inspiration from the transformative beauty of the butterfly, symbolizing evolution and renewal. The collection captures the lightness and delicacy of metamorphosis through flowing fabrics like chiffon, taffeta, and tricoline, paired with a serene color palette of blush pink, wine, brown, and off-white, enhanced with metallic details for a celestial touch. Sequins add a shimmering, magical quality, while gradient fringes and lycra bring a modern edge to each look. Complementing the collection are exclusive collaborations with Paintbox for custom nail designs, Nannacay for handmade bags, and Schutz US for bespoke shoes, further embodying the theme of transformation.

Pamella Roland:

At the illustrious Rainbow Room, perched atop the 65th floor of 30 Rockefeller Plaza, Pamella Roland unveiled her Spring/Summer 2025 collection in a setting befitting the grandeur of her designs. The evening began with a touch of luxury, as guests were greeted with champagne upon arrival, setting the tone for a night of timeless elegance. Celebrities like Vanessa Williams, Nicky Hilton, and Coco Rocha graced the front row, adding a layer of star-studded glamour to the event. The room itself, with its iconic city views, perfectly mirrored the collection’s Parisian inspiration, creating an atmosphere that felt both sophisticated and intimate—a fitting backdrop for Roland’s latest creations.

The collection, a tribute to the City of Light in springtime, featured soft pastels and vibrant hues reminiscent of a Parisian garden in bloom. As a fashion editor, I was particularly struck by the masterful blend of textures, from floral jacquards and lace to the exquisite embroidery of Charles Trenet’s “Le cœur de Paris” on key pieces like a butter-yellow tulle cocktail dress. Pamella Roland’s use of embellishments—crystals, feathers, and 3D floral elements—brought a sense of poetic storytelling to the garments. Each piece transported the viewer to the romantic streets of Paris, where Roland’s signature style effortlessly fused with the spirit of the French capital’s charm and renewal.

Sergio Hudson:

Sergio Hudson, Spring 2025, New York City, September 7 2024

Sergio Hudson, Spring 2025, New York City, September 7 2024. Photo Credit: Tom Concordia/KesslerStudio

As a longtime fashion editor, I’ve seen Sergio Hudson consistently push boundaries while staying true to his signature style. For his Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Hudson introduced a fresh palette of soft, cloud-like pastels, inspired by the film Valley of the Dolls. Think butter yellow, powder blue, and soft pink in everything from cotton cashmere tees to stretch sequin gowns and embroidered separates. This season, Hudson also debuted menswear on the runway, offering embroidered shirting, relaxed tailoring, and easy jackets, while reimagining his iconic power suiting for women with a more laid-back, yet still structured, silhouette. Look for the collection this spring at sergiohudson.com and select retailers.

Aiste Hong:

NEW YORK, NEW YORK - SEPTEMBER 06: A model walks the runway wearing Aiste Hong Spring 2025 at The Harmonie Club on September 06, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Thomas Concordia/Getty Images for Aiste Hong)

A model walks the runway wearing Aiste Hong Spring 2025 at The Harmonie Club on September 06, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Thomas Concordia/Getty Images for Aiste Hong)

Lithuanian-born, New York-based designer Aiste Hong made a striking debut at New York Fashion Week SS25 with her first collection, showcased at The Harmonie Club on September 6th. A graduate of Parsons School of Design, Hong’s luxury ready-to-wear brand blends modern femininity with powerful, contemporary designs. Drawing inspiration from the Lithuanian folk tale “Egle the Queen of Serpents,” her 19-look collection featured asymmetric silhouettes, sensual draping, and bold color blocking, using the finest Italian silks, wools, and cottons. Hong’s designs embody both elegance and strength, offering versatile looks for the modern woman.

BIMBA Y PALOMO:

BIMBA Y LOLA and Palomo Spain have joined forces once again for the FW24 edition of their BIMBA Y PALOMO collaboration, unveiled during NYFW on September 7th. Building on the success of their previous capsule, this collection blends delicate transparencies with bold black leather, featuring oversized pants, biker jackets, and skirts with high slits. The standout piece is a glamorous night dress paired with striking XXL faux fur coats in vibrant colors like tangerine and mauve. Inspired by the chrysanthemum, the collection incorporates floral motifs into brooches, handbags, and jewelry, available online starting September 8th, and in select stores globally.

Jonathan Cohen:

As a fashion editor, I’m always drawn to designers who merge art and emotion in their work, and Jonathan Cohen’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection does just that. This season, Cohen’s inspiration stems from synesthesia, a fascinating neurological phenomenon where senses intertwine, particularly the sound-to-color type known as chromesthesia. Drawing from vivid accounts of how music manifests as visual bursts of color, Cohen created floral prints that reflect this sensory journey. His three standout prints—Abstract Anemone, Orchid Scatter, and Anemones Supernova—mirror the crescendo of sound and color described by a woman at an orchestra, blending hues like rays of light and explosive supernovas. With additional color stories like vibrant tweeds and tie-dyes that bleed into each other, this collection represents Cohen’s deeply personal connection to music and color. Paired with Swarovski’s stunning Millenia and Gema jewelry, his designs are a visual and sensory experience, perfectly capturing the merging of sound and sight.

TOTEME:

TOTEME

Fine-gauge knitwear in a lyocell-cashmere blend combines with crisp cotton, sheer viscose-jersey and tulle to soften the sharply honed lines of suede, croco-embossed leather and taffeta outerwear, as well as structured compact viscose layers. Continuing TOTEME’s commitment to using high-quality, low-impact materials, the collection contains organic and recycled fibers, as well as responsibly sourced, certified fibers produced with a low environmental impact.

Michael Kors:

Michael Kors’ Spring/Summer 2025 runway show, held at The Shed in New York City’s Hudson Yards, embraced Mediterranean romance with a collection that celebrated 35 years of collaboration with Italian artisans. The collection fused the laid-back elegance of the Mediterranean with the opulence of artisanal craftsmanship, featuring intricate handwork, tailoring, and hidden luxury. Drawing inspiration from the romanticism of the 1950s and the sleek minimalism of the 1990s, Kors emphasized texture play with raffia embroideries, luxe lace, and crushed satins. Earthy tones like chocolate, ecru, and luminous blues, paired with sculptural heels and hand-woven leather bags, created an understated yet sophisticated aesthetic. A custom soundtrack by Sebastien Perrin amplified the moody Mediterranean ambiance, with stars like Olivia Wilde, Mary J. Blige, and Kerry Washington gracing the front row.

With these exciting trends setting the tone for Spring/Summer 2025, NYFW once again proves why it remains at the forefront of the global fashion scene. As the industry continues to evolve, this week-long celebration of creativity, culture, and innovation is more relevant than ever, setting the standard for what’s next in the world of style.

JUZUI:

NEW YORK, NEW YORK - SEPTEMBER 10: A model walks the runway for the Juzui SS25 Collection during September 2024 New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Canoe Studios on September 10, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Thomas Concordia/Getty Images for Juzui)

NEW YORK, NEW YORK – SEPTEMBER 10: A model walks the runway for the Juzui SS25 Collection during September 2024 New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Canoe Studios on September 10, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Thomas Concordia/Getty Images for Juzui)

At the JUZUI Spring/Summer 2025 show, held at Canoe Studios, Creative Director Taoray Wang unveiled a collection aptly titled “Floriferous,” capturing the elegance and symbolism of the Chinese peony. This latest chapter, following the debut “Full Bloom” from AW24, continues Wang’s love affair with florals, using delicate craftsmanship and modern techniques.

Silhouettes floated gracefully, adorned with intricate three-dimensional embroidery and vibrant floral motifs, bringing the beauty of budding petals to life. Luxe silks and pleats, crafted in collaboration with a traditional Chinese pleating company, enriched the collection with texture and movement.

Wang’s signature “Neo-Chinese Fashion” aesthetic was unmistakable, as she skillfully bridged the cultural heritage of her native China with a global outlook. The collection, designed for the modern, professional woman, exuded elegance and ease. As Wang herself noted, JUZUI strives to provide its sophisticated clientele with a “zero pressure” wearing experience—an ode to both beauty and freedom.

NARDOS:

Nardos, Spring 2025, New York City, September 9 2024

Nardos, Spring 2025, New York City, September 9 2024. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Nardos

The NARDOS Spring/Summer 2025 collection, presented at Chef Daniel Boulud’s restaurant Daniel, transported the audience into a serene world of nature’s elegance. Titled “Garden Symphony,” Creative Director Nardos Imam masterfully captured the beauty and vitality of a garden in bloom. Intricate floral motifs and organic elements were meticulously woven into each piece, evoking a sense of calm and renewal. Imam’s collaboration with artist Jane Mitchell brought vibrant, abstract colors to life, enhancing the natural flow of the collection. The result was a harmonious blend of artistry and luxury, elevating the NARDOS brand to new heights of refined, nature-inspired couture.

Elena Velez:

Lady Liberty, Mother of Exiles, lifts her lamp beside our golden door, beckoning the pariahs, saints, and sinners yearning for freedom. Elena Velez’s latest collection, “La Pucelle,” debuts on September 10th as a powerful tribute to the feminine symbols that define American aspiration. Through her nuanced, battle-scarred, and unapologetically autonomous figures, Velez paints a portrait of the modern woman—bold, disruptive, and defying the sensitivities of polite society. Partnering with global brands like UGG and OnlyFans, she reimagines classics with a punk edge. Velez’s collaboration with FIRE underscores her commitment to free expression, mirroring her designs that shatter boundaries and ignite cultural conversations

LaQuan Smith:

Laquan Smith, Spring 2025, New York City, September 9 2024

Laquan Smith, Spring 2025, New York City, September 9 2024

The LaQuan Smith Spring/Summer 2025 collection masterfully blends sensuality with the boldness of feminine sexuality, drawing inspiration from the interplay of sheer textiles, transparency, and animal motifs. This balance of draped softness and utilitarian tailoring creates a striking narrative of strength and allure. For the third season, Giuseppe Zanotti partnered with the brand, crafting six custom shoes exclusively for the runway. Samsung Galaxy’s collaboration introduced innovative sleepwear ensembles, while Marriott Bonvoy members were treated to an immersive fashion experience, including caviar tastings and beauty activations from Camille Rose and Lancôme. LaQuan Smith also continued his commitment to empowering Black fashion designers through mentorship in collaboration with McDonald’s Change of Fashion program, underscoring his impact on both fashion and culture.

Off-White:

The Off-White Spring/Summer 2025 women’s collection, titled “DUTY FREE,” continues to push the boundaries of fashion with its fusion of American and African influences. Drawing inspiration from Virgil Abloh’s legacy and a journey to Ghana, the collection reflects a powerful blend of athleticism, futurism, and cultural storytelling. The women’s designs are boldly sensual, with architectural cuts that wrap and sculpt the body, enhanced by transparent fabrics that heighten allure. Embroidery and hand-painted details bring a sense of agitation and energy to the surfaces, while sharp tailoring adds functionality. This season embodies the Off-White woman: unapologetically strong, seductive, and fiercely in command, all while maintaining a deep emotional resonance.

Bibhu Mohapatra:

Bibhu Mohapatra’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a masterclass in artistic expression, deeply inspired by the legendary Patti Smith. As I watched the runway show, I could not help but notice how It encapsulates her rebellious spirit, NYC roots, and the emotional depth found in her poetry. Mohapatra’s designs embody raw human beauty through a seamless blend of delicate fabrics and bold silhouettes. The introduction of an indigo denim group marks a new chapter for the brand—offering accessible, everyday luxury without sacrificing craftsmanship. Noteworthy collaborations with Nini Jewels, featuring gemstone accents, and Pantone’s Dualities color palette elevate the collection to new heights, adding layers of opulence and meaning.

Collina Strada:

Collina Strada’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection offered a refreshing escape from the noise of our current times, channeling a yearning to reconnect with the essentials. The muted elegance of soft palettes, historical smocking, and flowing, loooong hair brought a sense of quiet confidence to the runway. With the world’s intensity looming large, the collection felt like a gentle reminder to embrace simple pleasures—a floppy hat, fluttering sleeves, the breeze through trees—combining to form a lush, serene meadow of beauty. It was a timely call to ground ourselves, step away from distractions, and touch the earth once more.

AKNVAS:

Christian Juul Nielsen’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for AKNVAS, titled Nordic Midsummer Camp, aimed to capture the whimsical and adventurous spirit of a Nordic summer. While the concept was intriguing, I wasn’t overly impressed with the overall execution of the collection. However, I do appreciate the brand’s ability to convey a modern aesthetic that resonates with Gen Z, particularly through its use of on-trend denim and workwear-inspired jackets. The blend of nostalgia with contemporary designs offered a fresh take, especially in pieces like the floral appliqué tops and sequined embroidered dresses. Despite some missed opportunities for deeper impact, the collection successfully brought a youthful, carefree vibe to the runway, which will likely appeal to younger fashion-forward audiences.

Malan Breton:

Photo credits: Arun Nevader

Malan Breton‘s Spring/Summer 2025 women’s collection, unveiled at New York Fashion Week, explores the evocative themes of Betrayal, Revenge, and Hope through a fairy tale-inspired narrative. The show featured a blend of meticulously crafted leather and silk pieces, accompanied by an evocative soundtrack curated by Zeke Thomas, creating a visually arresting experience. However, while the collection was undeniably interesting and showcased Breton’s signature craftsmanship, it felt more suited to special occasions rather than everyday wear. The sophisticated designs, though well-executed, lacked the innovation needed to make a significant impact in the current fashion landscape. The collection, although elegant, did not quite capture the essence of modern, versatile fashion, missing an opportunity to push boundaries and resonate with the everyday woman seeking both style and functionality.

Parsons School of Design:

As a fashion editor, I had the pleasure of attending The New School’s Parsons School of Design MFA in Fashion Design and Society runway show on September 9th, 2024. This program, the first of its kind in the USA, has consistently made its mark on New York Fashion Week, and this year’s 13th generation of graduates truly showcased the program’s evolving prowess. Held at Ideal Glass Studios, the event highlighted the diverse talents of designers Margarida Feijão, Mohan Li, Yunhao Liao, Sijia Lyu, Patrick Taylor, K. S. Tehara, Nan Yu, Kaei Wang, Yue Xu, Liying Zheng, and Ziqi Zhen. Their work, spanning multiple mediums and themes, demonstrated a blend of innovative thinking and creative process. The inclusion of Open AD and textual descriptions further enhanced the accessibility of the show, engaging a wider audience and underscoring Parsons’ commitment to inclusivity. The presentation was a testament to the program’s international influence and its ability to push the boundaries of fashion education and practice.

Markarian:

Markarian’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, presented at New York Fashion Week, beautifully channels the whimsy and romance of classic ‘80s fantasy films through modern, sophisticated design. Drawing from childhood nostalgia, the collection features coordinating separates, hand-beaded florals, and custom brocade shoes, creating a captivating blend of fantasy and elegance. While the intricate detailing and luxurious fabrics showcase Markarian’s signature refinement, the theatrical elements—like exaggerated ruffles and oversized bows—feel more suited to special occasions than everyday wear. The collection is a triumph in capturing a nostalgic aesthetic with contemporary flair, though its standout pieces may appeal more to those seeking memorable, event-specific attire rather than versatile, daily fashion.

Willy Chavarria’s X Allen Edmonds:

Willy Chavarria’s collaboration with Allen Edmonds on the ‘Jalisco’ split-toe Derby oxford, showcased at NYFW, presented a bold attempt to merge formality with innovation. While the craftsmanship, evident in details like the Cuban heel and gold foil initials, underscores Chavarria’s commitment to pushing boundaries, the overall presentation felt disjointed. The collection seemed overextended in its branding efforts, lacking a cohesive focus that could have better highlighted the ‘Jalisco’ as a standout piece. Instead, the variety of styles and themes left the collection scattered, detracting from the impact of both Chavarria’s designs and Allen Edmonds’ esteemed heritage. Notably, Chavarria excels in denim looks, an area where his distinctive style and creative vision truly shine, suggesting that a more focused exploration of his strengths might have delivered a stronger impact.

Badgley Mischka:

Badgley Mischka’s Spring/Summer 2025 presentation was nothing short of a Mediterranean dream, effortlessly channeling the elegance and opulence of life aboard the iconic Christina O yacht. Inspired by Aristotle and Jackie Onassis’ lavish days on the sea, the collection transported the audience to a world of sun-soaked afternoons and moonlit nights, where luxury was the standard and effortless glamour was key. Flowing silhouettes, shimmering fabrics, and ethereal designs captured the essence of the world’s most beautifully dressed women, offering a perfect balance of vintage sophistication and modern refinement. The delicate interplay of pastel hues, intricate embroidery, and airy fabrics made each piece feel timeless yet fresh. It was a celebration of a carefree yet luxurious lifestyle, perfectly aligned with the spirit of Mediterranean elegance.

However, while the collection’s inspiration was undoubtedly captivating, translating the essence of the Onassis lifestyle into contemporary relevance proved to be a challenge. Some pieces felt almost too rooted in nostalgia, relying heavily on retro aesthetics that risked feeling dated rather than timeless. The use of flowing, oversized silhouettes, though beautiful, lacked the structure that might appeal to a broader range of modern consumers. Additionally, while the Mediterranean sun and moonlit nights offered a romantic vision, certain designs bordered on impractical for everyday wear, leaning more toward fantasy than functionality. As a result, the collection may resonate more with a niche audience who seeks luxury over versatility, potentially missing out on a wider, fashion-forward demographic.

Alaïa:

Alaïa’s Spring 25 Collection

The Alaïa Winter-Spring collection presented in New York is a masterful dialogue between art and fashion, a conversation that feels both organic and intentional. Showcasing the collection at the iconic Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum—a venue synonymous with artistic innovation—heightened the connection between the two worlds. Alaïa’s deep respect for American beauty, described as “freedom of body and spirit,” resonates with the brand’s timeless ability to blend simplicity with architectural complexity. This philosophical foundation, combined with a nod to American fashion icons like Halston and Claire McCardell, makes the collection historically rich yet undeniably modern.

The geometric shapes and architectural precision of the garments were impressive, as were the choices in fabric—double-face cashmere, sculpted poplin, and silk taffeta—that brought fluidity and structure in equal measure. Stripping away traditional fastenings like zippers and buttons and employing imperceptible internal structures demonstrates a strong commitment to design innovation. This approach, rooted in couture sensibility, maintains the brand’s legacy of meticulous craftsmanship. Inviting students from major American fashion institutions (FIT, Parsons, Pratt) to witness the collection further speaks to Alaïa’s commitment to the future of fashion, honoring both tradition and innovation in an impactful way.

While the collection is undeniably a bold statement of Alaïa’s vision, the absence of functional fastenings like zippers and buttons, though innovative, may challenge wearability for some consumers. The emphasis on sculptural shapes and internal structures could be seen as more conceptual than practical, raising the question of how these pieces will translate into everyday wear or retail appeal. While the collection celebrates American sportswear’s ease and practicality, the intricate designs may distance the brand from the very accessibility and simplicity that defines true American sportswear icons.

Additionally, the narrative of American beauty, while elegant and aspirational, could have benefitted from a more contemporary understanding of American identity and diversity. Alaïa’s historical connection to New York and the Guggenheim, particularly the reference to the 1982 show and 2000 collaboration with Andy Warhol, is compelling. However, bringing that narrative into a more present-day conversation about modern American style and culture would deepen the relevance of this collection to today’s global audience.

PRABAL GURUNG:

The Spring/Summer 2025 “Holi Hope” collection marks a vibrant and deeply personal transition from the muted tones of last fall to a season filled with optimism and bold colors. Inspired by my journey home to Nepal, this collection reflects a transformative period in my life. During Holi, a celebration of color and unity, I reconnected with my roots and found a sense of joy and hope amidst personal changes. The collection captures this transition through rich textures like hand-pleated silk chiffons, plissé, and crinkled sequins, paired with playful motifs of palm trees, coconuts, and bold Holi splatter prints. Silhouettes blend Eastern and Western influences, offering ease and elegance with drop waists and tailored pieces. The vibrant spirit of Holi is echoed through prints of exploding lotus flowers and oversized polka dots, while a lively musical score by Chloe Flower and student musicians from the Manhattan School of Music further brings the collection to life. This show was designed to embody a sense of optimism and celebrate the rising power of feminine leadership, bringing a sense of hope for the future.

However, while this collection feels like a hopeful rebirth, creating it came with challenges. Upon returning to the U.S., I felt a deep disillusionment with the divided state of the country I had once sought out for my dreams, especially as the youth rose to protest against growing societal divides. Navigating these feelings while designing was difficult; the sharp contrast between the joy I rediscovered in Nepal and the fractured atmosphere in the U.S. weighed heavily on me. Yet, I chose to channel this tension into the collection, blending hope and grit with unapologetically bold hues and intricate textures. While I faced uncertainty, the rise of feminine voices and young people speaking out gave me a renewed sense of purpose. This collection, despite the challenges, reflects my optimism for a future shaped by matriarchal power, resilience, and change.


About the Author:

Joseph DeAcetis is a visionary in the world of fashion, renowned as the best wardrobe stylist and art director of his generation. His impressive accolades and unmatched expertise set him apart in the industry. Joseph covers the intersections of style, culture, art, and fashion, with a particular emphasis on the evolving status of menswear.

Throughout his illustrious career, Joseph has penned award-winning columns for top-tier publications such as Esquire, People Magazine, Robb Report, and Playboy. His profound insights and engaging narratives have made him a leading voice in fashion journalism.

Most recently, Joseph served as the creative fashion director for Forbes Media, where he excelled as both a critic and reporter. His extensive body of work highlights the importance of dressing for success and explores how technological advancements are reshaping the fashion industry. Joseph’s authoritative yet approachable voice continues to inspire and influence fashion enthusiasts worldwide.

Comments, questions, or feedback? message me at stylelujo.com


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