Before NYFW officially began, Brandon Maxwell lit up Sotheby’s with a bold, forward-looking collection. Ten years in, his Spring/Summer 2026 show fused playful tailoring, Western flair, and effortless drama—proving he’s just getting started.
Brandon Maxwell has done it again, and this time, before the official NYFW calendar even began, he set the tone for the week. On Tuesday night, the designer marked his ten-year anniversary with an off-schedule Spring/Summer 2026 show at Sotheby’s. The setting felt intentional, merging art and fashion in a way that spoke to both tradition and fresh ideas. Instead of looking back on his past decade, Maxwell made it clear he’s focused on what’s ahead. “I’m very much interested in looking forward,” he said, and the collection reflected exactly that; joyful, confident, and free.
The show opened with sharp tailoring that still moved with ease, setting the stage for a collection built on contrasts. Early looks leaned softer, like a lavender shirt worn loose and slouchy and a pale blue coat that glided with lightness. Later in the lineup, striking red looks appeared; clean, powerful, and impossible to ignore, adding a bold pop of color without overshadowing the finale pieces. Together, these moments showed Maxwell’s range, balancing strength with softness throughout the runway.
Prints played an equally important role. Florals were styled with tailored separates, keeping them modern instead of overly romantic. Graphic checks appeared on blazers and skirts, refreshed with a lighter hand. At times, plaid pieces had unexpected structure, giving classic tailoring a modern edge while showing Maxwell’s playful approach to construction.
Texture and detail gave the collection its personality. Fringe swung from dresses and jackets, cowhide prints added a playful, Western-inspired note, and animal illustrations appeared across separates—a touch of whimsy that broke up the polish. Accessories reinforced the theme: V-shaped belt buckles and bolo ties added structure and a nod to the American West, while oversized bags and minimal jewelry kept the looks grounded and modern.
Outerwear and capes were also a standout element of the collection, adding drama without heaviness. Tailored coats in soft pastels and classic neutrals glided down the runway, often layered over separates for a relaxed yet polished effect. Capes in flowing fabrics added movement and a sense of ease, some featuring subtle patterns or trims that tied back to the prints seen elsewhere in the collection. These pieces felt both functional and striking—a perfect example of Maxwell’s ability to balance style with wearability.
Eveningwear closed the show with his signature drama, though always tempered with ease. Gowns sculpted with architectural lines moved fluidly, never rigid, designed to be lived in rather than just admired. They carried red-carpet presence but retained Maxwell’s signature effortlessness.
What tied everything together was a clear sense of freedom. This wasn’t a nostalgic anniversary collection, it was a look forward, full of playfulness, power, and joy. By showing ahead of the official NYFW schedule, Maxwell reminded the industry that he’s not following the conversation, he’s shaping it.
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