There are certain weeks when New York City feels less like a city and more like the center of the universe. New York Fashion Week is one of them.
From September 10 through September 15, 2026, the official New York Fashion Week calendar presented the Spring/Summer 2027 collections, beginning with Henry Zankov’s anticipated debut as artistic director of Diane von Furstenberg and concluding with Thom Browne. The official schedule included approximately 70 runway shows and presentations. Fashion, however, had already started spilling across the city on September 9, when Ralph Lauren, Coach, Rachel Comey, Cult Gaia and others staged events ahead of the official opening.
And from what I witnessed firsthand, New York was alive.
I have covered fashion for many years, and what struck me this season was not merely the clothes. It was the density of activity surrounding them. Models, editors, photographers, buyers, influencers, celebrities, publicists and fashion students seemed to be everywhere. Hotels were buzzing. Restaurants were packed. Cars were backed up. Invitations were arriving almost faster than anyone could reasonably attend them.
New York had become a city of fashion, celebrity, commerce, remembrance and controlled chaos.
FASHION WEEK MEETS A CHANGING AMERICAN ECONOMY
It was tempting, walking through this extraordinarily busy week, to interpret the crowds as evidence of a booming economy under President Donald Trump’s administration. But the economic picture deserves greater precision.
The latest Bureau of Economic Analysis estimate shows that real U.S. GDP expanded at a 1.5 percent annualized rate during the second quarter of 2026, following 2.1 percent growth in the first quarter. Consumer spending contributed to second-quarter growth. This is Trump’s economic policy full speed ahead.
“New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 reminded me why this city remains unlike anywhere else in the world. What I witnessed was an extraordinary collision of fashion, commerce, celebrity, culture and a new generation determined to redefine luxury on its own terms. From the established American houses to emerging designers, there was a palpable sense of energy, optimism and reinvention. The clothes felt more personal, the audiences more global, and the conversation surrounding fashion more immediate than ever. New York was crowded, hot, exhilarating and occasionally controversial—but above all, it was alive. And for me, that is the real story of SS27: fashion has rediscovered the power of excitement.”
— Joseph DeAcetis, Editor, StyleLujo.com
NYFW HAS AN INFLUENCER PROBLEM
Before getting to the runways, there was another story surrounding NYFW: who is actually influencing fashion?According to StatSocial’s Fashion Influencer Index 2026, an analysis of more than 800 fashion influencers, designers, models, stylists, editors and creators found that having millions of followers does not necessarily translate into reaching the people who actually follow New York Fashion Week.
The findings are fascinating. NYFW audiences were reportedly 38 times more likely to follow fashion critic Robin Givhan than the average fashion-affinity adult, while Cara Delevingne’s 33 million-person audience ranked ahead of Gigi Hadid at 23 million and Victoria Beckham at 17 million. The larger message is one I believe the industry should pay attention to: in fashion today, reach is impressive—but relevance may be far more valuable.
At the same time, fashion businesses have been confronting another component of Trump administration economic policy: tariffs. Designers have previously described higher textile and sourcing costs and pressure on margins resulting from new import duties.
Therefore, Fashion Week itself cannot establish that one administration or policy caused the week’s strength.
What I can say as an editor who was actually there is that NYFW felt commercially energetic.
There was an unmistakable appetite for events, fashion, celebrity, hospitality and experience. Brands appeared increasingly conscious that today’s customer—particularly Gen Z and emerging Gen Alpha consumers—does not simply purchase a garment. They buy into a universe.
That helps explain why the modern runway increasingly resembles entertainment.
Tommy Hilfiger even has a word for it: “fashiontainment.”
TOMMY HILFIGER TAKES OVER THE PLAZA
Few events demonstrated that philosophy better than Tommy Hilfiger’s return to New York Fashion Week.
Hilfiger transformed The Plaza Hotel into a celebration of American prep, revisiting red, white and navy while introducing vivid yellows and greens, exaggerated proportions, rugby influences, tartan, Oxford shirting and updated Ivy League codes.
And then came Gigi Hadid.
Hadid opened the show in a relaxed khaki blazer and brilliant red trousers, immediately setting the tone. Romeo Beckham closed, while Abby Champion also appeared on the runway.
The front row demonstrated just how broad fashion’s cultural reach has become: Kate Moss, Camila Cabello, Jisoo, Patrick Schwarzenegger and an assortment of athletes and international entertainment personalities descended on The Plaza.
This wasn’t simply a runway.
It was branding as theater.
RALPH LAUREN: AMERICAN STYLE EVOLVES:
Ralph Lauren remains one of America’s greatest fashion storytellers, and Spring 2027 reminded us why.
His presentation played with the codes that have defined his career while loosening them for today’s customer: navy and white, voluminous trousers, leaner jackets and waistcoats, distressed denim juxtaposed against refined fabrication and even a dramatically treated seersucker suit.
Celebrities including Viola Davis and Cynthia Erivo attended.
What interested me most was the continued tension between polish and imperfection.
Spring 2027 does not appear interested in perfection for perfection’s sake.
Clothing is becoming personal again.
VERDAVAINNE:
Shop now: VERDAVAINNE
Having attended VERDAVAINNE’s Spring/Summer 2027 presentation at Cipriani Wall Street, I was immediately struck by how naturally Cyril Verdavainne’s collection commanded such a grand New York setting. Against the soaring granite columns and historic architecture, the clothes delivered precisely the kind of visual impact Fashion Week should provide. From my vantage point, it was the extraordinary use of color that first captured my attention—vivid reds, golden yellows, chartreuse and oversized hand-painted florals appeared to almost come alive as the models moved through the space. Yet beneath all that drama was a remarkable sense of refinement: sculpted waists, sweeping volumes, romantic trains and beautifully considered details demonstrated a designer who understands how to make an entrance without allowing the clothes to overwhelm the woman wearing them. For me, the finale crystallized the VERDAVAINNE message for SS27: confident, unapologetically feminine glamour is back, but this time it arrives with a modern understanding of individuality, craftsmanship and sustainability. It was one of those NYFW moments where the venue, the movement of the models and the collection came together to create something far more memorable than simply seeing clothes on a runway.
MICHAEL KORS BRINGS MODERNISM TO MoMA:
Michael Kors staged Spring 2027 in the Museum of Modern Art’s Sculpture Garden, using architecture as both setting and metaphor.
The clothes explored bold simplicity through sculptural dresses, tailoring, stripes, gingham, painterly florals and vivid bursts of color. On the runway were some of the industry’s most recognizable models, including Alex Consani, Paloma Elsesser and Anok Yai, alongside Awar Odhiang, Julia Nobis and others.
The celebrity contingent was equally formidable.
Gabrielle Union, Olivia Munn, Lea Michele, Chloe Fineman, Danny Ramirez, Jordyn Woods, Lori Harvey and Judith Light were among the guests reported at the presentation.
This was another lesson from NYFW 2027: established American designers are not abandoning their DNA. They are recalibrating it.
EVAN HIRSCH x SHOPGOODWILL.COM:
Shop now: Evan Hirsch
Discover: ShopGoodwill.com
What I found particularly refreshing about Evan Hirsch x ShopGoodwill.com for Spring/Summer 2027 was that the presentation challenged one of fashion’s oldest assumptions—that creating something desirable always requires starting with something new. Hirsch’s New Journeys Through Old Memories instead looked backward in order to move forward, transforming pre-loved garments and vintage discoveries into highly considered contemporary fashion. From my perspective, this was sustainability communicated in one of the most convincing ways possible: through the clothes themselves rather than simply through a marketing message. Lace, intricate beading, metallic fabrics, vintage-inspired silhouettes and unexpected combinations of texture gave previously owned materials an entirely different identity, while still allowing traces of their former lives to become part of the story.
For me, that idea speaks directly to where fashion is heading. A new generation of consumers increasingly wants creativity, individuality and a story behind what they wear, while the industry continues searching for more responsible approaches to production and consumption. Hirsch demonstrated that circular fashion does not have to look compromised or predictable; it can be expressive, glamorous and runway-worthy. The collaboration also carries a social dimension: ShopGoodwill.com reports that more than 85 percent of revenue from its auction sales funds Goodwill workforce-development and job-placement programs. At a Fashion Week built around presenting what comes next, Evan Hirsch delivered an intriguing proposition: sometimes the future of fashion may already be hanging in someone else’s closet.
JASPER:
Shop now: JASPER
What immediately captured my attention at JASPER Spring/Summer 2027 was the deeply personal story behind the clothes. Creative director Kooshan Dunn looked to his Persian heritage—and specifically to the Persian rugs that are treasured and passed between generations—as the foundation for a collection about heirlooms, memory and identity. Yet from my perspective, nothing about the presentation felt nostalgic or trapped in the past. Instead, those cultural references were transformed into something sensual, contemporary and remarkably expressive. Custom artwork by Sofia Belkinreinterpreted traditional medallion patterns across sheer fabrics, while unraveling ribbons, raw edges and extraordinary cascades of fringe created the impression that the weave of a treasured Persian rug had been pulled apart and reconstructed directly around the body.
What I especially appreciated was the collection’s balance between heritage and modernity. Cobalt and teal met bronze, brass and gold; asymmetric and one-shouldered silhouettes contrasted with more architectural forms; and fringe became structural rather than merely decorative. The result was powerful, elegant and undeniably sexy. For me, JASPER represented one of the most interesting conversations taking place during NYFW SS27: How does a new generation of designers honor where they come from without simply reproducing the past? Dunn’s answer was to take heritage apart, examine its individual threads and weave them into a new visual language. In a fashion landscape increasingly focused on authenticity and identity, JASPER demonstrated that some of the most compelling ideas for tomorrow can originate in the objects, traditions and stories we inherit.
NEGRIS LEBRUM:
Shop now: Negris LeBrum
Experiencing Negris LeBrum Spring/Summer 2027 during New York Fashion Week offered something distinctly different: a collection grounded in Southern heritage yet determined to speak in a thoroughly contemporary fashion language. Presented at Rockefeller Center, the show brought Creative Director Travis Hamilton’s vision of what the brand describes as “bold Southern luxury” into one of New York’s most recognizable settings. What struck me was the juxtaposition—Southern cultural references meeting Manhattan energy, history meeting technology, and an established brand story being repositioned for a new generation. Even the soundtrack reflected that dialogue between past and future, with the presentation incorporating an original score curated and arranged using AI technology.
What makes Negris LeBrum particularly compelling to me, however, is that Hamilton has built the label around a story rather than simply an aesthetic. The house traces its inspiration to a 1940s Louisiana love story and Hamilton’s Southern Creole roots, with the message “Lenoir est Joli”—“Black is Beautiful” remaining fundamental to its identity. That heritage gave the SS27 presentation a sense of authenticity at a moment when fashion consumers increasingly want to understand not only what they are buying, but the culture and narrative behind it. For me, Negris LeBrum represents an important direction in American fashion: regional identity no longer needs to be diluted in order to participate in the international luxury conversation. Instead, heritage itself can become luxury when it is expressed with confidence, craftsmanship and a clear point of view.
SERGIO HUDSON:
Shop now: Sergio Hudson
Attending Sergio Hudson’s Spring/Summer 2027 presentation at New York’s legendary Rainbow Room was one of those Fashion Week experiences where the location and the clothes seemed destined for one another. With Manhattan stretching out beyond the windows of 30 Rockefeller Plaza, Hudson created a world rooted in glamour, confidence and unapologetic power dressing. His inspiration this season was particularly clever: James Bond reversed. Instead of the man commanding the action, Hudson imagined the woman as the secret agent—the powerful, seductive figure in control—while the man became the ingenue.
From my perspective, that idea translated beautifully onto the runway. Hudson understands the architecture of the female body, and SS27 reinforced why his sharply defined waists and hourglass silhouettes have become such recognizable signatures. There were precision-cut suits, plunging jumpsuits, fitted dresses, hand-draped chiffon gowns and eveningwear designed not for a woman who wants to disappear into a room, but for one who expects the room to notice when she enters. Bold color and graphic tiger motifs injected an additional dose of energy into the collection, with saturated greens, yellows, oranges and fuchsias demonstrating that Hudson’s interpretation of sophistication certainly does not require playing it safe.
What struck me most while watching the collection was how convincingly Hudson continues to make American glamour feel relevant to a new generation. There is sex appeal here, certainly, but also authority. There is nostalgia for an era when people truly dressed for an occasion, yet the clothes never appeared trapped in another decade. The front row reinforced that sense of modern cultural energy, with Karen Pittman, Muni Long, Sunny Hostin and NeNe Leakesamong those attending. For me, Sergio Hudson SS27 delivered a message that felt particularly appropriate for New York right now: power dressing is back—but this time, the woman wearing it isn’t waiting for someone else to give her the power. She already owns it.
BIBHU MOHAPATRA:
Shop now: Bibhu Mohapatra
Attending Bibhu Mohapatra’s Spring 2027 presentation was, for me, one of those wonderful New York Fashion Week moments when fashion transcends clothing and becomes theater, history and art. Inspired by the legendary Marchesa Luisa Casati, a woman who famously sought to become a “living work of art,” Mohapatra created a collection for women who understand that dressing can be an extraordinary expression of individuality and personal power. From my perspective, what made the collection particularly compelling was the richness of its cultural dialogue. The fluid ikat silks of Odisha met intricate Spanish-inspired needle lace; Venetian glass references encountered couture draping; while textiles sourced from Japan, Italy and France created an international vocabulary that nevertheless remained unmistakably Bibhu.
What impressed me most was the extraordinary craftsmanship. Seven distinct embroidery stories were created by artisans in India, while four different laces, sumptuous silks and the new painterly Luisa floral print brought romance and dimension to the runway. The palette—pink, blush and ivory punctuated by olive green and mustard gold—evoked an Italian rose garden, while an unexpected capsule of indigo denim dresses, trousers and a trench coat provided a wonderfully modern counterpoint to the collection’s opulence. Fine jewelry by PMJ Jewels of Hyderabad amplified the sense of ornament and occasion. Yet beneath all that beauty was a message I found particularly relevant for SS27: fashion should give a woman permission to be seen. Mohapatra was not proposing quiet luxury or anonymity; he was celebrating presence, individuality and the sheer pleasure of dressing extraordinarily well. In an era when so much fashion is designed to blend seamlessly into everyday life, Bibhu Mohapatra reminded me that sometimes the greatest luxury is walking into a room and changing its energy simply by being there.
SABYASACHI:
Shop now: Sabyasachi
Attending Sabyasachi’s first New York Fashion Week show since 2009 was a standout moment of SS27. Presented at Spring Studios and opened by Christy Turlington, Bengal Byzantine Broadway brought together Calcutta, Byzantium and New York through Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s distinctly Indian vision of global luxury.
What impressed me most was the extraordinary marriage of Bengal craftsmanship and modern opulence—embroidery, beadwork and jeweled Tiger motifs appeared alongside High Jewellery from The Metropolitan Museum of Art | Sabyasachi collaboration. For me, the collection proved that heritage and modernity need not compete: the future of luxury can be global while remaining deeply rooted in cultural identity.
PATBO:
Shop now: PatBO
Attending PatBO’s Spring/Summer 2027 presentation outdoors at Domino Square in Brooklyn felt like experiencing a slice of Brazil in New York. Creative Director Patricia Bonaldi looked to Brazilian modernism and landscape design, translating sweeping curves, saturated color and the country’s extraordinary craftsmanship into fluid silhouettes, sculptural volumes and dramatic eveningwear.
What captured my attention was the sense of movement and handcraft—intricate embroidery, transparency, expressive draping and vivid greens, blues, reds and earth tones brought the collection to life. The season also introduced PatBO Eyewear, handmade in Italy, expanding the house into a new category. For me, Splendid Brazil demonstrated that Brazilian fashion isn’t simply having a moment—it has a sophisticated design language all its own, and the world is finally paying closer attention.
HOUSE OF VANDERBILT x V&S GLOBAL STUDIO:
Discover: House of Vanderbilt | V&S Global Studio
Attending Consuelo Vanderbilt Costin’s NYFW presentation inside Grand Central Terminal’s Vanderbilt Hall was one of the week’s most uniquely New York moments. More than a century after the Vanderbilt family helped shape Grand Central, a Vanderbilt returned—this time with a runway. With Mario Lopez hosting, designers Lorena Saravia, Dustin Glickman of DSTN and Nabil Hayari brought Mexican, Scandinavian and Parisian perspectives to one of America’s most recognizable landmarks.
What interested me most was the collision of heritage and fashion’s future. Vanderbilt & Seewald Global Studio incorporated technology, livestream shopping and Click-To-Buy commerce into a presentation designed to give international designers greater visibility in the American market. In a Fashion Week obsessed with what comes next, this was a compelling reminder that New York’s history can still provide the stage for fashion’s next generation.
KIM SHUI:
Shop now: Kim Shui
Attending Kim Shui’s Spring/Summer 2027 show was an exploration of fashion as performance, transformation and self-expression. Drawing from the visual language of Peking Opera, Shui reinterpreted the drama of traditional Lingzipheasant feathers through sweeping fringe, sculptural headwear, saturated color, embroidery and exaggerated proportions. References to peacocks and birds of paradise added another dimension, connecting the ceremonial gestures of theater with nature’s own spectacular displays of beauty and attraction.
What impressed me most was the tension between restraint and sensuality. Corseted bodices, structured collars and brocade met sheer lace, transparency, cutouts and dramatic proportions that allowed the body to both conceal and reveal. Shui also understood something essential about presenting this collection here: New York itself is a stage. For me, SS27 captured fashion’s ability to transform identity—a celebration of women taking up space, commanding attention and moving through the world with confidence.
Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2027:
WHAT WOMEN WILL WEAR FOR SPRING 2027
After watching the collections and studying the broader season, several messages became clear.
Color is returning with confidence.
The Associated Press observed a movement toward joyful dressing, with blues ranging from navy and turquoise to teal appearing prominently. Waistlines were emphasized through scarves, belts and cummerbund-like treatments, while fringe injected movement.
Red was another unavoidable presence, appearing both on runways and throughout street style.
For women, expect sensuality without excessive formality, sculptural silhouettes, expressive color, emphasized waists, florals, fringe and a renewed willingness to have fun with clothing.
There was also what some observers have called “analog dressing”—clothing styled to appear less algorithmically perfect and more instinctive, lived-in and personal.
That may become one of the season’s most culturally interesting ideas.
AND FOR MEN? RELAX THE RULES
Menswear is experiencing a related evolution.
Spring 2027 suggests that the traditional boundaries separating business, leisure, sportswear and tailoring will continue dissolving.
Think oversized tailoring, relaxed trousers, collegiate references, layered shirting, double denim, updated prep and garments that can transition between work, travel and social environments. Hilfiger’s modernized prep was perhaps the clearest commercial example of this movement.
The younger male consumer appears increasingly comfortable combining categories that previous generations kept separate.
That is not the death of tailoring.
It is tailoring learning a new language.
THEN CAME THE MOMENT EVERYONE TALKED ABOUT
Not every headline involved clothing.
During the COS runway presentation on September 13, PETA protesters interrupted the show to protest the use of wool. Video showed CFDA President and CEO Steven Kolb physically intervening and restraining protesters. PETA strongly condemned his actions. Kolb subsequently apologized, described his conduct as inappropriate and took a voluntary leave of absence. COS also expressed regret concerning the incident and initiated an internal review, according to reports.
It became one of Fashion Week’s most uncomfortable and controversial moments, quickly extending the conversation far beyond the runway. In the aftermath, questions surrounding accountability and potential legal implications have entered the broader discussion, adding yet another layer of scrutiny to an incident that became one of NYFW’s most unexpected headlines.
It also demonstrated something larger: fashion can no longer separate aesthetics from conversations about sourcing, sustainability, animal welfare and corporate responsibility.
Those debates are now part of the runway whether brands invite them there or not.
FASHION WEEK IN THE SHADOW OF 9/11
There was another, far more solemn dimension to this particular September.
September 11, 2026 marked 25 years since the terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001.
The CFDA adjusted its Friday calendar out of respect for the anniversary, beginning the day’s schedule at 10 a.m.
The US Open also commemorated the anniversary with moments of silence, special recognition ceremonies and visual tributes at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center.
Between Fashion Week activity, commemorations, visitors and the concluding days of the US Open, moving around New York could be challenging. Add unusually warm September weather, crowded sidewalks and the inevitable Fashion Week traffic, and glamour occasionally required patience.
But perhaps that is precisely what makes New York Fashion Week different.
It isn’t sterile.
It is New York.
THE CELEBRITY ECONOMY HAS ARRIVED
Everywhere you looked, celebrity and fashion had become inseparable.
Across the week, names including Dua Lipa, Rosalía, Anne Hathaway, Elle Fanning, Jessica Alba, Paris Hilton, Pamela Anderson, Kate Moss, Camila Cabello, Gabrielle Union, Teyana Taylor and Gigi Hadid appeared around shows and events.
That star power matters.
A runway image can travel around the world within seconds. A celebrity appearance can generate millions of social impressions. A model can simultaneously be a campaign star, entrepreneur, creator and media platform.
Fashion’s communications hierarchy has fundamentally changed.
The editor remains important. The buyer remains important. But the consumer now sits in the virtual front row alongside us.
NEW YORK’S NEXT GENERATION
Perhaps the greatest takeaway from Spring/Summer 2027 was that American fashion appears increasingly interested in its next chapter.
Established houses were celebrating extraordinary milestones—Coach its 85th anniversary, Michael Kors and Carolina Herrera their 45th, and Rachel Comey her 25th—while younger designers and new names fought for attention alongside them.
That collision of legacy and youth is precisely where New York is strongest.
Fashion is responding to a consumer who wants value but also experience; heritage but individuality; craftsmanship but convenience; physical clothing but digital storytelling.
And through all the traffic, heat, parties, celebrities, protests, memorials, photographers and frantic rides from one side of Manhattan to another, I found myself reminded of something important:
New York Fashion Week is at its best when New York itself becomes part of the collection.
For six extraordinary official days—and really seven if we count the September 9 prelude—the city dressed for the occasion.
It was imperfect. It was occasionally exhausting. It generated controversy. It was crowded, loud and unpredictable.
But it was alive.
And as Spring/Summer 2027 begins its journey from runway to retail, perhaps that is the strongest trend New York offered us:
Fashion wants to feel alive again.
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