There are moments in fashion when a collection transcends the traditional boundaries of clothing and becomes something much more profound — a conversation between history, culture, craftsmanship, and emotion. Berluti’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, titled “Impressions et Sensations,” is precisely that type of experience.
Presented for the third consecutive year at the magnificent Fondation Simone et Cino Del Duca overlooking Parc Monceau, Berluti transformed an imposing late 19th-century classical townhouse into a poetic universe where creativity moved between imagination and material expression. The presentation was not simply a showcase of garments and accessories; it was an exploration of how ideas become tangible through the hands of artisans.
This setting was particularly meaningful. The Foundation, established by Simone Del Duca in honor of her husband Cino Del Duca, celebrates the arts, literature, and sciences under the aegis of the Institut de France. Like Berluti itself, the Foundation represents a dialogue between Italy and France — two cultures connected through creativity, intellectual curiosity, and exceptional craftsmanship.
For SS27, Berluti chose the garden as its central metaphor — a space representing growth, imagination, transformation, and the relationship between humanity and nature. But this garden was not merely botanical. It was an emotional landscape. It represented the moment when inspiration begins as an invisible idea and eventually becomes something physical: a hand-finished leather shoe, an embroidered jacket, a sculptural silhouette, or a meticulously crafted accessory. This philosophy is deeply aligned with the Berluti identity.
The Little Prince: A Literary Universe Reimagined Through Luxury Craftsmanship
One of the most fascinating elements of Berluti’s SS27 presentation was its creative dialogue with Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s masterpiece, The Little Prince.
Having personally read Le Petit Prince in both French and English, I have always been fascinated by how a story of such extraordinary philosophical depth could exist within such a small number of pages. The original French version carries a unique musicality and emotional precision that reveals Saint-Exupéry’s genius. Certain expressions, emotions, and philosophical observations simply possess a different resonance in the author’s native language.
The brilliance of The Little Prince is its ability to speak simultaneously to children and adults. It explores themes of friendship, responsibility, love, loneliness, imagination, and the invisible connections that give meaning to life. The famous line: “On ne voit bien qu’avec le cœur. L’essentiel est invisible pour les yeux.” — “It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye.” could almost serve as a philosophy for Berluti itself.
For Berluti’s Spring/Summer 2027 Menswear presentation, the Maison assembled a distinguished cast of male models who perfectly captured the collection’s vision of understated elegance and modern sophistication. The presentation featured Seid Mahamat, Alvise Candida, Daniel Howard, and Naoki Sumiya, each bringing a distinct presence to Berluti’s refined expression of contemporary masculinity.
The casting, led by Piotr Chamier, reflected a thoughtful approach to portraying the Berluti man — confident, cultivated, and effortlessly refined. The collection’s visual identity was further elevated through the lens of photographer Robbie Lawrence, with styling by Tom Guinness, whose creative direction brought together the craftsmanship, heritage, and modern sensibility at the heart of the SS27 Men’s presentation.
Luxury today is no longer defined solely by visible status. The modern luxury consumer — particularly younger generations such as Gen Z and millennials — increasingly searches for authenticity, storytelling, emotional connection, and craftsmanship. Berluti understands that a beautifully made object is not valuable simply because of its price; it is valuable because of the human experience embedded within it.
With renewed global interest in Saint-Exupéry’s universe and upcoming cinematic interpretations introducing the story to new generations, The Little Prince continues to prove its cultural relevance nearly 80 years after its publication. For younger audiences discovering the story today, the appeal is clear: it represents a world increasingly seeking imagination, authenticity, and emotional intelligence. These same values define Berluti’s approach to menswear.
Berluti: From Italian Shoemaker to French Luxury Institution
To understand why this collection feels so significant, one must first understand Berluti’s extraordinary history. Founded in Paris in 1895 by Italian craftsman Alessandro Berluti, the Maison began with a simple but ambitious vision: creating exceptional footwear that combined technical mastery with artistic expression.
Since its founding, Berluti has stood at the pinnacle of luxury menswear, earning an international reputation for its uncompromising craftsmanship and refined aesthetic. Rooted in Italian artisanal tradition and shaped by Parisian sophistication, the Maison has evolved into one of the world’s most respected purveyors of fine footwear, leather goods, and ready-to-wear. Today, Berluti continues to define modern masculine elegance through exceptional savoir-faire, innovative design, and a timeless commitment to artistry that transcends generations.
Born in Senigallia in Italy’s Marche region, Alessandro Berluti brought Italian artisanal traditions to Paris during a period when the city was becoming the global capital of culture, fashion, and creativity. From its earliest beginnings, Berluti existed between two worlds: Italian craftsmanship and French sophistication. This dual identity became one of the Maison’s greatest strengths.
Over four generations, the Berluti family refined the art of shoemaking, developing a reputation among discerning clients who appreciated understated elegance rather than obvious luxury. The Maison’s legendary Alessandro lace-up became one of the most recognizable symbols of Berluti — a shoe admired for its sleek silhouette, exceptional construction, and ability to develop character over time.
However, Berluti’s transformation into a modern luxury house accelerated under the creative vision of Olga Berluti, who elevated the concept of patina into an art form. Rather than treating leather as a static material, Olga Berluti viewed it as something living — something capable of revealing personality, history, and emotion. The famous Venezia leather became a canvas where artisans could create depth, transparency, and movement through layers of color. This philosophy remains central to Berluti today.
The Maison expanded beyond footwear, introducing fine leather goods in 2005 and a complete ready-to-wear collection in 2011, transforming Berluti into a complete menswear universe. The acquisition by LVMH provided the resources and global platform to expand the Maison internationally while preserving its commitment to craftsmanship. Rather than becoming another mass-produced luxury label, Berluti maintained its identity as a house where artisanship remains the foundation.
SS27: When The Garden Becomes Menswear
Berluti’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection explores nature not through literal interpretation, but through sensation. The collection asks a question: How can a feeling become a garment? The answer is found through texture, color, embroidery, and craftsmanship.
The Forestière jacket, one of Berluti’s signature silhouettes, receives a poetic transformation with a natural-looking daffodil appearing to bloom from the pocket. It feels almost as though nature itself has emerged through the garment. Floral expressions continue throughout the collection, appearing through embroidery, prints, and optical techniques on shirts, jackets, and leather pieces.
One standout example is the embroidered jersey jacket, where the floral motif appears organically integrated into the fabric rather than simply placed upon it. This approach demonstrates Berluti’s ability to balance tradition with innovation.
The Maison does not simply decorate clothing — it creates visual narratives. The Un Jour blouson further highlights this philosophy through its entrelacs collar, bringing together multiple Berluti craftsmanship techniques into one sophisticated statement piece. The result is a garment that feels contemporary while remaining deeply connected to heritage.
The Art of Patina: Painting Light Onto Leather
Perhaps the most fascinating relationship within this collection is Berluti’s connection to Impressionism. In the Orange Salon of the Foundation, Berluti explored how Impressionist painters captured atmosphere rather than simply reproducing reality.
This connection feels completely natural. Just as artists such as Claude Monet used layers of color to capture changing light, Berluti artisans use layers of pigment to create the Maison’s celebrated patinas.
The Venezia leather becomes a canvas. Through gradual application of color, transparency, and depth, artisans create pieces that appear almost illuminated from within. The collection introduces accessories inspired by garden scenes at different moments of the day:
- Morning dew on flowers.
- Sunlight reflecting across water.
- The richness of blooming hydrangeas.
- The mysterious tones of evening gardens.
Each piece tells a story. The leather goods become less like accessories and more like personal artifacts.
Footwear as Sculpture
For Berluti, footwear has always been the heart of the Maison. The SS27 collection introduces the Galet Bloom, inspired by the organic curve of the arum lily. The shoe transforms botanical inspiration into sculptural form, combining architectural construction with artistic finishing.
Meanwhile, the Lorenzo and Panache loafers continue Berluti’s tradition of refined elegance, demonstrating that timeless silhouettes can evolve without losing their identity. These are not shoes designed for a single season. They are designed to accompany a lifetime.
A Future Built on Memory
Perhaps the most powerful message within Berluti SS27 is the idea that true luxury is connected to time. The Maison’s restoration program reinforces this belief, recognizing that exceptional objects should evolve with their owners rather than be replaced.
A Berluti creation is not intended to remain untouched inside a closet. It is meant to travel, age, develop character, and collect memories. This philosophy feels especially relevant today. In an era dominated by rapid consumption and disposable fashion, Berluti represents another possibility: luxury as a relationship.
The Spring/Summer 2027 collection is ultimately not just about clothing. It is about imagination. It is about craftsmanship. It is about the invisible emotions that transform an object into something meaningful. Through The Little Prince, Berluti reminds us that the most valuable things in life are often those we cannot immediately see. And through its extraordinary craftsmanship, the Maison proves that when creativity meets mastery, fashion becomes more than what we wear. It becomes part of who we are.
Photography Courtesy of Berluti
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